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Greece implemented appellation laws
in 1971 and 1972. Utilizing criteria similar to France and most European countries,
the technical aspects of the legislation were established by the members of the Wine
Institute, a department of the Ministry of Agriculture. The program is currently
administered by KEPO, the Central Committee for the Protection of Wine Production,
a branch of the same ministry. A number of factors play a role in the determination
of qualifying areas and products. These include: the suitability, pedigree and historical
role of grape varieties; soil composition; vineyard elevation; yield per stremma
(1 stremma=1/10th of a hectare); sugar levels, the effect of oenological practices
such as barrel aging and any additional factors likely to affect the quality of wine
within regions under consideration.
Greece's appellation laws, though no guarantors of quality, especially where matters
of taste are concerned, had several important results:
- Firstly, they created an incentive
for the preservation of traditional varieties. Despite the fact that, in some regions,
qualified varieties were cultivated at the expense of significant, unqualified varieties,
the stage was set for the development of a distinct, ethnic wine industry. The appellation
laws guaranteed the continuation of a number of important traditional products.
Secondly, they strongly favored larger companies and local wineries and cooperatives
already operating within these zones. Although certain producers have appeared to
have more access to the governing body, the institution of the appellation laws at
least fortified an economically vital segment of the industry and paved the way for
continued modernization.
Thirdly, they provided a template for quality control compatible with the French
model—a prerequisite to Greece’s membership in the EEC. Although EU membership creates
serious constraints for the Greek wine industry, benefits, such as economic grants
and access to EU markets, outweigh the drawbacks.
Lastly, they set (sometimes literally) high standards for the geographical location
of vineyards. Vineyard elevation and orientation have dramatic effects on grapes.
The standard for wine quality in the West is based on characteristics typical of
climates more temperate than that of Greece. Chemical stability and suitability for
aging are integral components of the aesthetic ideal to which both European and New
World winemakers aspire. To create wines of sufficient alcohol and acidity that conform
to this ideal, Greek growers must take advantage of abundant micro climates, many
of them at higher elevations or with northern orientations. In this regard, the Greek
appellation designations displayed good science.
It is doubtful that Greek appellations
will be of much interest to American consumers. Even French appellations seem only
to interest us when they coincide with our sense of taste, sense of value or thirst
for celebrity. These days, Greek producers, like so many of their European brethren,
are as likely to eschew designations they feel confine them as to submit to a definition
of quality with which they don't agree or consider irrelevant or outside the scope
of their ambitions, especially if an appellation has no direct economic advantage.
Likewise, consumers will utilize their own criteria in determining which Greek wines
are of the best quality. Some appellation-controlled wines will be valued and some
will not. Not only is the definition of quality highly subjective and some appellation
criteria therefore automatically suspect, wide variations in style are just as likely
within qualifying zones as without. For all the work of learning a country's appellations
and regions, one still depends on additional guidance. America is not known for this
level of patience. Still, certain Greek appellations certainly live up to their promise.
One would be hard pressed to find undrinkable Naousa, Nemea or Mantinia. Appellation
wines at their best, in areas such as in Santorini, Peza, Rhodes, Goumenissa (and
in many other zones), certainly owe part of their success to considerations formalized
in the rules governing their manufacture. Certain appellations, especially Samos,
are unassailable guarantors of high quality (even though the Samos appellation
is not among Greece's highest).
Currently Greece has are four appellation designations:
- O.P.A.P.
O.P.A.P. (Onomasía Proeléfseos Anotéras Piótitos)
is equivalent to 'Appellation of Origin of Superior Quality' or the French 'V.L.Q.P.R.D.'
There are currently 25 designations for this appellation, almost all of them for
dry red and white wines. This list has been growing slowly since the inception of
the laws—too slowly for a number of producers who feel justified in receiving qualification
on the basis of the consistent production of wines of quality equal to or greater
than those produced in some previously authorized regions. The wheels of justice,
in Greece as everywhere else, turn slowly (and sometimes unjustly).
O.P.E
O.P.E (Onomasía Proeléfseos Eleghoméni) is equivalent
to 'Controlled Appellation of Origin' or the French 'V.Q.P.R.D.' There are currently
seven qualified regions or products, all of them for sweet wine (including Samos).
Reserve
and Grande Reserve
Producers of OPAP and OPE wines have the option to use the term Reserve for
white wines that are aged for two years (spending a minimum of 6 months in barrel
and 6 months in bottle) and red wines that are aged for 3 years (same minimums).
Grand reserve can be used for white wines that age for three years or more (spending
a minimum of one year in barrel and one year in bottle) and red wines that are aged
for 4 years (spending a minimum of two years in barrel and two years in bottle).
Naturally, the white Reserve and Grand Reserve are almost exclusively the domain
of producers of what we in America would call dessert wines.
Topikos
Inos
Topikos Inos (Local wine) is the Greek equivalent to the French Vins de
pays. There are currently 139 qualifying appellations. This middle ground provides
the greatest relief for individual producers hoping to gain an appellation on the
basis of more innovative, original or, in some cases, traditional combinations of
cultivar and location. Labels are permitted the use of confidence-inspiring domaine
names, including, Domaine or Estate (Ktima), Monastary (Monastiri) and Chateau (Archondiko)
and Villa so long as the requirement of sufficient locality is met. The guidelines
are less strict and proposals for new designations are always under consideration.
[Due to the esoteric features of the place-names on this list, it has not been translated
on this site. Readers wishing to receive a copy in Greek may contact us.] Within
this category is a special designation, Appellation by Tradition, which includes
Retsina and Verdea, and is designed to insure the quality and survival of distinct
ethnic genres.
Epitrapezios Inos
Epitrapezios Inos (Table wine) is equivalent to the French Vin de Table.
Not surprisingly, in Greece as in France and Italy, winemakers, frustrated by the
limitations inherent in conforming to exisiting appellations, are increasingly opting
out of the appellation game. Knowing full well that export markets tend to evaluate
products on an individual basis, if not on the reputations and abilities of the winemakers
themselves, many have chosen to simply opt out of the system. So many outstanding
products began appearing as 'Table wine' during the last decade that for Americans
deeply familiar with Greek wine, this designation has nearly become a mark of superior
quality.
Kava
Producers of Table wine have the option to use the term Kava (rough translation:
cellared, which in Greece is a qualititative association) for white wines
that are aged for two years (spending a minimum of 6 months in barrel and 6 months
in bottle) and for red wines that are aged for three years ( spending a minimum of
6 months in new oak or 1 year in old oak barrels and two 2 years in bottle).
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