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Greece Now
The development of this new segment
of the Greek wine industry continues. Major new ventures, like the pedigreed Gaia and Voyatsis
estates have, in a short time, made a substantial mark. Energetic young producers
like Nikólaos Douloufakis, Yiannis Economou and Haridimos Hatzidakis have
thrown their hats into the ring, sure to mature over time and to make their presences
felt.
At the same time that much attention in Greece during its recent wine revolution
was centered on foreign cultivars, few producers, large or small, ever aimed to abandon
what remained of the traditional Greek vineyard. While it is true that many successful
new ventures of the 1980s and 1990s relied on a certain prestige associated with
the use of common Western varieties (whether due to savvy business sense or a lack
of confidence in native varieties to attract serious consideration abroad), doubts
concerning the future potential of Greece's indigenous grapes were not played out
in the country's vineyards. For one thing, the abandonment of well-established markets
for traditional products of any quality was–and still is–uncalled for. For another,
faith in the country's wine traditions and resources was sufficiently strong to guarantee
not only their survival, but their primacy in the identity of a new wine industry.
George
Skouras, a major figure
during the past two decades, maintains that foreign varieties were a passport, a
standard against which the abilities of Greece's producers could be measured. Only
with these, he believes, would the outside world have a basis for accepting the abilities
of Greece's winemakers, and by extension, a basis for judging and appreciating the
vinifications of indigenous cultivars.

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