Greek Wine Regions: Aegean Islands

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Viticulture area: approx.9,000 hectares
Wine production: approx. 150.000 hectoliters

The Aegean Islands constitute one of the oldest winemaking regions of the world. Due to their proximity to the Phoenician and Egyptian cultures they became the first station in the migration of viticulture westward accross the Mediterranean during ancient times. Wines from certain islands were highly prized in antiquity and became the first to be subject to appellation laws and the focus of international trade. During the Middle Ages, many islands became sources for Malvasia (Malmsey), a strong, sweet progenitor of port which had important status in Northern European markets for hundreds of years.

With the notable exception of Samos, the islands–like so many Greek regions–never quite recovered their winemaking status in the wake of economic hardship brought on by foreign occupations, wars, emmigration and, on certain islands, phylloxera. During the last half of the 20th century tourism eclipsed most other economic pursuits in the Aegean. In the case of Santorini, tourism is a clear threat to a significant wine tradition. In most cases, it is an immeasurable distraction that nevertheless provides markets for local wine production where it exists. In Santorini, Crete and Samos (and other islands to a lesser extent) tourism at least provides exposure to local products of quality that are available in foreign markets.

The climate in the Aegean Islands is, of course, among the warmest of any grape-growing region in the world. By modern (northern) standards, this could be seen as an obstacle to the production of quality wine. Be that as it may, a number of Aegean islands have distinct mitigating climatological and geological features such as elevation, favorable microclimates created by ocean winds or mountain valleys as well as a roster of well-adapted cultivars that recent experience has shown need only be subject to modern techniques of vinification in order to reveal their competitive potential.

The Aegean islands have the distinction of being one of just a few Greek regions in which surviving ancient traditions and modern methodologies converge to create genres of products whose character can truly be said to span the ages. The best example of this is undoubtedly the raisined Vinsanto of Santorini. These complex, sweet wines are produced in a range of styles, from raw versions that suggest their ancient origins, to brassier, hip versions with the potential to shake the dessert wine market on its foundations. The Samos Muscats are so classic as to define the genre for the rest of the world (France especially), and a number of ancient red and white grapes from the region are turning even the domestic Greek market on its ear (see Varieties).

Crete is not normally considered an Aegean island per se, but is included nonetheless to simplify the organization of this site. Crete accounts for a significant amount (20%) of Greek wine production, but her reputation has lagged somewhat behind that of various mainland regions. Crete, however, has consequential cards yet unplayed. Galvanized with tradition and a bevy of remarkable ancient cultivars, it is a region in the midst of its most exciting phase of development. Mykonos, Paros, Limnos and Rhodes are all home to serious cooperatives or individual producers determined to utilize their native resources to best advantage in reviving the reputation of Greece's most ancient winemaking region.

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