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Much of the region's most important wine production is undertaken in the shadow of one of these peaks, Kato Olympos (lower Olympus) in the Rapsani appellation district of the Larissa area. This appellation is one of the smallest in Greece, geographically, comprised by the villages of Rapsani, Kraniá, Piryetós, and Ambelákia. The appellation is for red wines only, calling for a blend of Xynómavro, Stavrotó and Krasáto with no specified percentages. Vineyards are located at elevations between 400 and 700 meters. Tsantalis, which opened a winery in Rapsani in the early 1990s, has replaced the local cooperative as chief producer in the region. They produce a Rapsani OPAP consisting of 33% of each variety. Their arrival in Rapsani more-or-less coincided with an attempt to reposition themselves in the premium market. As a result, their Olympos Rapsani displays every technical benefit of premium wine production, including eight days of skin contact, one year in 50% new/50% third-use Allier oak and year of bottle aging. They produce a limited-production reserve version made from selected, hand-picked fruit that spends an additional year in bottle. Perhaps the most respected Rapsani producer is Dr. Dimitris Katsarós. He opened his winery just above the village of Kraniá, high on the slopes of Kato Olympos, in 1978 with the ambitious goal of producing first-rate Bordeaux-style reds. His Cabernet and Merlot vines are at high elevation (around 700 meters) and have begun displaying the advantages of age. Dr. Katsarós, a successful ear, nose and throat doctor, is driven not by commercial objectives, but rather by the desire to produce wines that satisfy his personal taste and meet his own high standards. His gradual, but steady, self-edification as a winemaker has been rewarded by Greek consumers willing to pay premium prices for his low-yield, low-production wines. A firm devotee of organic farming, Katsarós believes in the primacy of vineyard management over all else in order to create a solid foundation for vinification. Patiently nudging his wines upward one vintage at a time, Katsarós has now achieved the kind of red wine that transcends its Greek origins. Having reached a level of comfort with his red, he planted Chardonnay in the mid-1990s. The nudging process is in full swing again, but his first attempts have already received critical acclaim in Greece. His immediate preoccupation is to round out the fruit of this already elegantly acidic Chardonnay. Tyrnavos Tyrnavos is just west of Rapsani, occupying moderate topography at 130 meters. This is an area which, in Ottoman times, was favored for grain production over vine cultivation. A dearth of respectable cultivars was exacerbated by the arrival of Phylloxera between the First and Second World Wars. What has survived in the way of tradition is an orientation towards dessert wines, clearly reflected in the preponderance of Moschato Amvourgou (red Muscat of Hamburg) in local vineyards. Batíki, Moschato Aspro, Roditis and post-phylloxera Savatianó comprise the balance of plantings, an aggregation that has not inspired the Greek Wine Institute to issue an appellation of origin. There are two producers of wine from Tyrnavos grapes, one being the local Tyrnavos Cooperative, makers of both dry and sweet Moschato Amvourgo as well as white wines and rosés. The only independent producer is Vasdavanos, near Larissa. Larissa The city of Larissa is just below of Tyrnavos in the northern plain area of Thessalia. Just outside the city, in Gianoúli, is the Vasdavanos Winery. They produce a dry white from Moschato, Batiki Roditis and Savatianó sourced from vineyards in Tyrnavos. Their red, Inothói, is made from locally-grown, low-elevation Agiorgitiko, Cabernet and Moschato Amvourgou. Lazaros and Pantelis Karipidis began making wine on a lark in Vounena, just a few kilometers west of Larissa, in 1985. Their orientation has been towards Western varieties such as Cabernet, Merlot, Syrah, Primitivo, Nebbiolo, Sangiovese and Sauvignon Blanc. Their winemaking has increased in sophistication over the years and they are now poised to enter the ranks of Greece's leading premium wine producers. Karditsa At the time Lambert-Gocs wrote The Wines of Greece, the Karditsa area, home to a wide constellation of grape-growing villages climbing from the plains at the town Karditsa itself upwards into Agrafa at the Pindos mountains, appeared to him a place of great—but unrealized—potential.
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