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![]() Zakynthos is the southernmost of the Ionian islands and the one on which the legacy of Venetian occupation is still most strongly felt. It was also the subject of Greece's earliest ambelographical document, a seventeenth century poem mentioning thirty-four cultivars. At the start of the twentieth century, according to Lambert-Gocs, (Archduke) Ludwig Salvator found more than eighty. That this would be so is remarkable considering the history of the vine under Venetian rule. What existed for viticulture prior to the arrival of the Venetians on the island is unrecorded. It has been widely assumed that the Ionian genre known as Verdéa and the variety Robola (similar in name to Ribolla) were imported by the Venetians. Evidence provided by Lambert-Gocs, however, suggests that Verdéa is only the Italian name for a style of white wine that has been popular across the northern Mediterranean basin but which has origins in Ancient Greece. Likewise, genetic analysis has revealed that the Robola grape has no particular relation to the Italian Ribolla family and may not be a distinct cultivar at all. The Venetians doubtlessly supported the cultivation of the vine, despite a decision that would profoundly deteriorate the spectrum of wines produced on the island over subsequent centuries. In 1516, at time at which there was no lack of exportable Malvasia from other Venetian Aegean, the red currant, native to the Peloponessos and a commodity of considerable popularity in Europe, was planted on Zakynthos with the aim capitilizing on this demand. This idea was so remarkably successful that the Venetian name 'Zante' is synonymous to this day with the same species of currant. Even more remarkable is the fact that wine grapes, though relegated to ever smaller parcels, were never abandoned altogether. The red currant itself came to be vinified and markets for its wine were developed so extensively that by the 1800s currant wine, or Stafiditis, was the reigning commercial wine on the island. The end of the period of British rule (1815-1864) marked the end of significant foreign markets for currants and the onset of a depressed economy. While currants still constitute a high proportion of vineyard area, the surviving wine grapes are of increasing commercial importance. Verdéa, the refreshing and acidic 'green' wine mentioned above, though eclipsed in the past by Lianoroïdi (or Lianorrógi), a highly regarded sweet white wine which itself fell victim to the commercial force of currant wine, has proven the fittest to survive. In modern times, Verdea is produced mainly from the local variety Goustolidi, often with some combination of Robola, Skiadópoulo, Pávlos, Asproudi or Aretí. The most well-known producer on Zakynthos is the noble Komoutos family, who have been making wine there since 1638. Their Verdea is made with most of these varietes with Pinot Gris. The Verdéa of Theodoros Voultsos (marketed under the Kalliniko label) contains Goustolidi, Skiadopoulo, Robola and Pávlos. The local Zakynthos cooperative uses only Pávlos and Skiadópoulo in its version. Red varieties on Zakynthos are in limited production, but not without merit. The Avgoustiatis, a dark red grape blended either with other dark grapes to produce so called 'black" wine or with grapes of lesser color to produce rosé. Komoutos has a Rouge and a Grand Reserve Rouge, both barrel-aged and consisting of Avgoustiatis, Katsakoúlias, Agiomavritiko and other local varieties. Another local producer, Solomos, has a red of Avgoustiatis, Katsakoulias, and Stafidambelo. Komoutos makes their rosé of Avgoustiatis, Katsakoúlias and Agiomavritiko with an admixture of the neo-Ionian Fileri, Mandilaria and Xynómavro. Voultsos makes a less red-intensive rosé featuring Roditis, Violentó and Katsakoúlias. |
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