Chief Greek White Grape Varieties

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Chief Varieties Employed in the Commercial Production of White Wine

Many on the periphery of the wine trade in Greece lack faith in Greek white wines generally. It is often said that Greece's red wines are naturally superior to her whites. Not true. The winemakers themselves, thankfully, harbor no such illusions, exhibiting pride and the consistent pursuit of excellence in their white wine vinifications. In our travels we encountered greater numbers of enologists believing their red wines perpetually in need of tweaking. Perhaps this is because standards for red wine tend to be more rigorous, particular or pretentious. Then, again, tweaking is what enologists get paid to do. Be that as it may, there is no dearth of potential from Greece's native cultivars now that winemakers are understanding how to (and when not to) tame them.

This page includes descriptions of a number of cultivars, most of which are included due to their obvious commercial significance. Others may be of less commercial importance, but still represent important traditions. Also noted are the relatively obscure varieties that are experiencing successful revivals at the hands of forward-thinking vintners.

Photographs courtesy of The Greek Vitis Database.

Aidani Aspro

This variety is found in the Kyklades, a subgroup of the Aegean Islands, most notably on Santorini and Paros. Far lower in acidity and sugar than the Asyrtiko, with which it is usually blended, it contributes to its wines somewhat exotic floral aromas. It plays a secondary, but important role in Santorini, where it is featured in dry and semi-dry blends with Asyrtico and Athíri within the AO zone of Thirassia and in Vinsanto. It is the floral component of the traditional Santoriote white Broúsko, also an Asyrtico blend. In Naxos, it is blended with Athíri to create the traditional sweet white wine of Apiranthos. It is thought to be one of the grapes employed in the production of Malvasia in the Aegean during the Middle Ages.

Athiri

Another likely component of Malvasia, Athiri is planted and vinified widely, not only on the Aegean Islands, but in places on the surrounding mainland as far north as Halkidikí and as far west as Lakonía in Peloponessos. Although impossible to prove, there is a general consensus among historians and writers this is the same grape known as Theriaki in Ancient times. Vinifying to round, rich wines of considerable alcohol but little acidity, this grape, with its amiable fruit, augments the fruit of the strong, but somewhat thin, Asyrtiko without significantly lowering its overall alcohol. Traditionally it was employed mainly as a component in varietal blends, the exception being on Rhodes, where a fortuitous combination of geography and microclimate produced character and quality deserving of mono-varietal versions. On Rhodes it is also vinified in Greece's only methode champenoise sparkling wine. Increasingly, however, other mono-varietal production is gaining in popularity. Tsantalis now produces a stainless steel fermented Athiri in which brief skin contact helps produce a clean, fruity and aromatic wine likely to find favor in the U.S.

Asyrtiko

This variety is often described as Greece's best white wine grape. The enthusiasm of those who produce and enjoy wine from Asyrtiko is well-justified, although, in part, the top status of this cultivar results from something of a monopoly that is eroding slowly as increasing numbers of lesser-known white varieties undergo modern vinification. Asyrtiko has the distinction of being a southern Mediterranean white grape that ripens to high acidity. Soil, climate and elevation have significant effects on the outcome of vinification. The Santorini whites in which it plays a dominant role are among the most elegant in Greece.. It is a producer of fickle must. Despite the incredible structure and agebility of its wines, it is high in phenolic compounds and highly susceptible to oxidation. The tendency for Asyrtiko to brown and produce darker aromas as a result of even controlled oxidation has advantages in the vinification of Vinsanto, yet its reaction to oak– especially to new oak–can test a winemaker's skill in barrel selection and timing. The most successful barrel-aged Asyrtiko wines seem the product of a stability-first philosophy in which few chances are taken where the risk of over-oaking exists. Asyrtiko has far more patience for old oak than for new. Some producers striving to create oakier products they believe will appeal to New World sensibilities have fallen victim to the merciless side of the variety. In recent years,its range has been extended as far north as Drama and it is achieving success in the hands of those sufficiently respectful of its slightly volatile nature.

Dafni

Dafni is a traditional variety from Crete that was nearly lost until re-cultivated by Sotiris and Lampros Lyrarakis. Dafni is the Greek word for laurel, whose aromas its wine are said to resemble. Initial attempts at vinification produced wines that were extraordinarily clean with pear-like aromas and fruit and pleasant, subtle acidity. The wine may have lacked some body and stability by some standards, but at the time I believed it, with certainty, to be the best Greek white wine I had tasted: beautifully vinified, international, original. Several years of additional effort on the part of the highly-motivated Sotiris confirms that, in the right hands, Dafni is capable producing wines on par with the best in Greece.

Debina

This cultivar, native to both Epirus, in northwest Greece, and Albania, was traditionally blended with the red Bekari and Vlachiko grapes to produce a semidry, sparkling rosé as well as single varietal versions. In spite of the tradition, neither of these two red grapes made the cut when the Zitsa appellation was issued in 1971. Some versions of single-varietal Debina wines are still slightly carbonic and some still off-dry. Green apple aromas come up time and again in descriptions of the wines, but acidity - even from high elevation grapes - is somewhat more moderate than might be expected. It produces wines that are also of moderate alcohol, but having distinct, spicy (in addition to appley) aromas and refreshing character.

Lagorthi

Employed at present (as far as we know) by only three commercial producers - Gerovassiliou , Oenoforos and Antonopoulos, Lagorthi is nevertheless one of the most highly regarded white Greek cultivars. It is yet another grape revived by a forward-thinking vintner, in this case the late Konstantinos Antonopoulos, the late founder of Antonopoulos Vineyards in Patra, Peloponessos. Wines from Lagorthi can have low to medium alcohol, moderate acidity and exhibit a soft and slightly creamy quality the result of healthy malic acid content. Oenoforos produces a eye-opening version that benefits by skin contact and a general philosophy that malic acid should survive to bottling. Their 2000 was at 12.5% alcohol, a level Tasos Drossiadis, a former Antonopoulos protégé and enologist now working at Oenoforos, expects to lower to 11% in 2001 in order to help improve aromas. The still extraordinary 2000 buttresses Drossiadis' claim that "Lagorthi is one of the great cultivars, like Sauvignon Blanc - only better. It has strength. It is crisp, but creamy. It has plenty of acidity that contributes to its structure, but imperceptibly, resulting in great mouth feel." Lagorthi exhibits a restrained floral nose that Drossiadis does not believe can be over-expressed in vinification.

Malagousia

Malagousia is an aromatic, citrusy grape thought indigenous to the area just north of Patras, across the Gulf of Corinth. It is the darling of Evangelos Gerovassiliou who, while enologist at Domaine Carras in Halkidiki before establishing his own estate in the late 1980s, first cultivated the grape for its blending potential. In his highly regarded Ktima Gerovasiliou (white) it supports Asyrtiko with middle body and well-extracted fruit aromas. Chateau Matsa produces a mono-varietal Malagousia in Attika, where the rather hot and dry climate accentuates the more complex characteristics of its fruit.

Monemvasia

Monemvasia is thought to be the original variety (or part of a group) that produced Malvasia (also known as Malmsey or Madeira) when the trade in this genre was centered in the eponymous medieval port town on the southeastern coast of the Peloponessos. Although not likely true, lore has it that name Malvasia is a Venetian bastardization of Monemvasia. By the 1400s, Malvasia production had been largely co-opted by Crete and other Aegean islands. As the port's influence declined, so did the production of the wine. By the beginning of the fifteenth century, emmigration resulting from Ottoman occupation had sealed the fate of wine production in the area. This cultivar grows almost exclusively now on Paros in the Kyklades (Aegean Islands), but genetic analysis by Mihalis Boutaris proves strong relatedness between Monemvasia and the varieties Moschofilero and Asprouda Mykinon, two modern inhabitants of the region close by the ancient port. Parenthetically, his research also found a strong likelihood of relationship between Monemvasia and Gouais blanc, now shown to be a parent, with Cabernet franc, of Chardonnay. Monemvasia has common features with several other grapes supposed to have been utilized in the production of Malavasia, in particular; early ripening, powerful aromas, low acidity and high sugar.

Moraïtis estate on Paros produces two wines from Monemvasia. One is Sylloyi, a mono-varietal, the other an Asyrtiko blend called Ktima Moraïtis Lefkes. Nicos Lazaridis also produces two versions, both from his Paraportiano winery on Mykonos. Both are blends with Mandilaria; one a dry red, the other a dry rosé.

Moschato Alexandrias

Moschato Alexandrias is the Muscat Gordo Blanco, the Lexia of Australia, the Hanepoot of South Africa, Moscatel de Alejandria of Spain, the grape of Moscatel de Setubal of Portugal and the variety used to produce golden raisins in California. It is a type of Muscat generally considered inferior to Moscháto Aspro, but which nevertheless seems to have found some kind of ideal environment on Limnos. There, the variety comprises 70% of production and has earned AO status for both dry and sweet versions, the latter available in both fortified and unfortified versions. It favors dry soil (against rot) and low elevation (for sugar concentration), although plantings in other regions, particularly Makedonia, suggest potential in other environments. It is certainly common in every wine region in Western and Eastern Europe under a wide range of synonyms. On Limnos it is vinified in a number of styles, including fortified and unfortified dessert wines and dry wines. Despite its unfavorable reputation, Greek winemakers seem nevertheless sufficiently intrigued with the variety to continue attempts to mine its potential.

Moschato Aspro

Moschato Aspro is the classic (and classical) Muscat for which the wines of Samos are renowned and which comprises the sole variety permitted under the OPE Muscat of Samos appellation. Widely grown at present and, it is supposed, in ancient times (though maybe not on Samos), the grape produces a surprising variety of wines, even on Samos island alone.

Samos Muscats fall into two main categories: Glykó (vin doux) and Imíglyko (demi doux). The Glykó is made from skinless must arrested with pure grape spirits to a total alcohol level of 15%. The Cooperative of Samos has a monopoly on grape supply, but other companies (Boutaris, Kourtakis) produce appellation Samos Glykó as well.

Samos Cooperative's Imiglyko is fermented to completion without the use of spirits. The must ferments on the skins briefly to extract aroma without extracting tannin. Though similar to Glykó on the nose and palate, the resulting wines have considerably (nearly three times) less residual sugar.

Samos also produces aged versions utilizing these two processes. Anthemis corresponds to the fortified Glykó, though with slightly lower sugar content. Aged in oak for three to four years, it aquires concentrated aromas, a complex amber hue with light caramel on the palate subdued by pleasant, well-balanced acidity. Samos Nectar (like Imiglyko) is naturally fermented. Must containing high sugar levels is fermented for about three months until alcohol reaches approximately 15%. It is also aged in oak for roughly four years, aquiring an orange hue, powerful toffee aroma and velvety sweet texture on the tongue. Wine writers, past and present tend to wax poetic in their descriptions of this, perhaps the most esteemed of commercially produced Greek wines.

Miles Lambert-Gocs writes of another Samos muscat, Palaio Nectar, made from the best Nectar, then aged up to ten years in oak. It is not commercially available.

Samos produces dry, local Moscháto which vary in quality, but are a fun twist on the genre (and something of a relief after extended exposure to the sweet versions). The cooperative produces a bottled version called Samena lacking the raw character of local renditions, but intriguing none the less. There is a tradition of resinating dry Moscháto on the island as well. Sacriligious as it may seem, it is, at least, another alternative to sweet wine. Only sweet Moscháto, however, qualifies for OPE status.

Samos is not the only producer of Moskháto Aspro of note. The Rhodes appellations provide for both sweet and dry versions, although appellation regulations stipulate a combination of Moschato Aspro with the Trani Muscat, a Venetian introduction. Although the lesser of several important varieties in production, the Rhodian Moschato is held in high regard (though possibly no longer in commercial production). KAIR, the winemaking group of the local agricultural cooperative now focuses on dryer wines. Moskháto Aspro figures in their semi-dry rosé (Imíxiros Rosé, Moulin), but only as a minor component in a blend that includes Mandiariá, Grenache and Athíri.

Patras has been a source of quality wines produced from Moskhato Aspro, but acreage has diminished in the appellation zones (Muscat of Patras, Muscat of Rion of Patras). The variety seems best represented recently by the Muscat of Rion by Parparousis.

Plytó

Plytó is yet another cultivar revived by the Lyrarakis brothers on Crete. Careful low-yield farming and typically thoughtful vinification create a highly unlikely wine, given Crete's southern location. Vineyard elevation is healthy, at over 400 meters, but cannot alone account for the acid spark the wine displays. Clearly, such green fruit is built into the grape. Their version has world-class structure - sufficient roundness to balance acidity and a mild dose of minerals. Whether or not other producers will jump on the bandwagon, the Lyrarakis' have demonstrated that Plyto has the capability to produce wine that is competitive with both European and New World versions of more common varieties.

Prinknádi (also Perkniáriko)

A rare, speckled white grape cultivated for vinification only by Kimis Chrisohóou. It yields a bold, fruity wine of sturdy alcohol (12%) that stands up nicely to the strong flavors of northern Greek cuisine.

Robola

Robola (a/k/a Rompola) is a traditional cultivar of the Ionian Islands. A naturally low-yield grape, it is expensive to vinify. It is thought to have been in production in the Ionian Isles for close to 700 years and produces wines of considerable variation, depending on location and elevation. Until genetic analysis proved otherwise, it was assumed to have been a transplant or clone of Ribolla Gaia of Friuli (a/k/a Malvasia of Venice) from neighboring Italy. Likely it is a Greek cultivar with an Italian name received during the Venetian occupation of the Islands. At its best, the variety produces wines of healthy acidity and notable citrus. It is a component grape, with Goustolídi, Pávlos and Skiadópoulo, of the traditional Ionian blend known as Verdéa, which, in keeping with a theme, is the Italian name for a style traditional to both Italy and Greece, likely having ancient Greek roots.

Roditis

Roditis is grown chiefly in the northern Peloponessos but is widely, if sporadically, present as far north as Makedonia. Roditis is actually a family of closely-related clones varying in skin color from pink to red. Typical Roditis vineyards contain a stew of these various clones, although serious producers have developed a preference for isolating and vinifying distinct clones on the basis of quality or character, the most highly regarded being the Alepou. Perhaps no Greek cultivar can produce so wide a range in quality as Roditis. Many factors can swing the pendulum. Low elevations, high yields and ambivalent winemaking result in feeble, if not embarrassing wines. High elevations, northern exposure and mitigating winds from the Gulf of Corinth make the areas of Patras and Egio in the Peloponessos naturally favorable environments for the culltivation of the variety. Antonopoulos (in Patras) and Oenoforos (in Egio) utilize low-yield fruit and state-of-the-art equipment and philosophies to eke out the utmost acidity and most refined features of the variety to create New World styles. Paraparousis (also in Patra), is the standard for a more staid, but elegant Roditis. Tsantalis, in Makedonia, has a long history of Roditis vinification. The quality of their endeavors has improved steadily especially during the last five years, a period during which this large outfit adapted quickly to meet the ascending standards of the internal Greek and export markets.

Savatianó

Savatianó accounts for more than 15% of Greece's total vineyard area. It is a forgiving and productive grape, resistant to disease and well at ease in the harsh and dry climate of Central Greece—including Attika, the region where its name was synonymous, until recently, with cheap Retsina. Low in acidity, Savatianó is a bit of a blank canvas. High-yield farming creates fruity, but often nondescript bulk wines, perfect in past times for concealment beneath heavy doses of resin. Often grassy, sometimes peachy or citrusy, careful low-yield farming can produce wines of impressive–though not particularly refreshing–character. On one end of this spectrum, Chateau Mátsa in Attika makes a rather exquisite, dry, mono-varietal Savatianó from old-vine grapes. On the other end, Aléxandros Megapános has created a version so high in dry extracts, levels rival red wine. Little rainfall during the vintage we tasted (2000), super-low yields of under 500 kilos per stremma and Megapanos' extreme pursuit of varietal expression combine to make a fully vinified Savatianó of such fruitful concentration it is difficult to comprehend that its initial attack of glycol is not caused by residual sugar.

Siderítis

Siderítis is a late-ripening local variety of the northern Peleponnesos prone to achieve both healthy acid and alcohol levels. Thanasis Parparousis produces a classic, mono-varietal version popular among Greek cognoscenti called The Gifts of Diónysos. Though masterfully tamed in the hands of Parparousis, it displays a near culinary level of spice that hints at reasons for the more traditional use of the grape in blends with less gregarious white cultivars.

Tsaoúsi

A cultivar believed to be of Egyptian origin, Tsaoúsi has been culivated widely throughout the Mediterannean and the Balkans, including in Algeria, Turkey, Bulgaria and Northern Greece. The grapes produce wines of moderate acidity; timely harvesting is the key to sustaining healthy levels. Like so many ancient varieties, it produces mildly fruity wines whose noses tend towards honey. At present it is most commonly associated with Kefaloniá, where it has figured prominently in local wines, gaining renown in the 1980s when Nicholas Cosmetatos blended it with the more crisp Robola to create the most elegant and international Greek whites of their time.

Vilana

Vilana is the chief white cultivar in Iraklio Prefecture in Crete and the only variety permitted under the Peza OPAP appellation for white wines. Vilana produces fresh, low alcohol wines perfectly suited to quaffing in their region of origin. Despite the appellation, however, Vilana wines can display a wide range of quality. They are prone to oxidize and quality is greatly affected by vineyard elevation, orientation and yields. At its best, Vilana produces Granny Smith fruit on the nose and mouth. Less conscientious treatments can be pleasant and light, but a bit mushy and nondescript as well. The Lyrarakis brothers were the first to cultivate the variety for commercial production during the sixties. They remain on the cutting edge, producing a classic OPAP (100% Vilana) that has won the affection of both well-heeled Cretans and tourists. Their estate white Cuvée Grand Colline shows Vilana at its blending best with Sauvignon blanc and Sylvaner.

Volitsa

An old native cultivar of the Ahaïa region (Peloponessos), Volitsa is being cultivated and vinified by Oenoforos in nearby Egio. According to Oenoforos enologist Tassos Drossiadis, only high elevation vineyards produce worthy fruit. The first release of wines from this grape, he believes, can be expected with the the 2001 vintage.

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Aidani Aspro

	This variety is found in the Kyklades, a subgroup of the Aegean Islands, most notably on Santorini and Paros. Far lower in acidity and sugar than the Asyrtiko, with which it is usually blended, it contributes to its wines somewhat exotic floral aromas. It plays a secondary, but important role in Santorini, where it is featured in dry and semi-dry blends with Asyrtico and Athíri within the AO zone of Thirassia and in Vinsanto. It is the floral component of the traditional Santoriote white Broúsko, also an Asyrtico blend. In Naxos, it is blended with Athíri to create the traditional sweet white wine of Apiranthos. It is thought to be one of the grapes employed in the production of Malvasia in the Aegean during the Middle Ages.

Athiri

	Another likely component of Malvasia, Athiri is planted and vinified widely, not only on the Aegean Islands, but in places on the surrounding mainland as far north as Halkidikí and as far west as Lakonía in Peloponessos. Although impossible to prove, there is a general consensus among historians and writers this is the same grape known as Theriaki in Ancient times. Vinifying to round, rich wines of considerable alcohol but little acidity, this grape, with its amiable fruit, augments the fruit of the strong, but somewhat thin, Asyrtiko without significantly lowering its overall alcohol. Traditionally it was employed mainly as a component in varietal blends, the exception being on Rhodes, where a fortuitous combination of geography and microclimate produced character and quality deserving of mono-varietal versions. On Rhodes it is also vinified in Greece's only methode champenoise sparkling wine. Increasingly, however, other mono-varietal production is gaining in popularity. Tsantalis now produces a stainless steel fermented Athiri in which brief skin contact helps produce a clean, fruity and aromatic wine likely to find favor in the U.S.

Asyrtiko

	This variety is often described as Greece's best white wine grape. The enthusiasm of those who produce and enjoy wine from Asyrtiko is well-justified, although, in part, the top status of this cultivar results from something of a monopoly that is eroding slowly as increasing numbers of lesser-known white varieties undergo modern vinification. Asyrtiko has the distinction of being a southern Mediterranean white grape that ripens to high acidity. Soil, climate and elevation have significant effects on the outcome of vinification. The Santorini whites in which it plays a dominant role are among the most elegant in Greece.. It is a producer of fickle must. Despite the incredible structure and agebility of its wines, it is high in phenolic compounds and highly susceptible to oxidation. The tendency for Asyrtiko to brown and produce darker aromas as a result of even controlled oxidation has advantages in the vinification of Vinsanto, yet its reaction to oak– especially to new oak–can test a winemaker's skill in barrel selection and timing. The most successful barrel-aged Asyrtiko wines seem the product of a stability-first philosophy in which few chances are taken where the risk of over-oaking exists. Asyrtiko has far more patience for old oak than for new. Some producers striving to create oakier products they believe will appeal to New World sensibilities have fallen victim to the merciless side of the variety. In recent years,its range has been extended as far north as Drama and it is achieving success in the hands of those sufficiently respectful of its slightly volatile nature.

Dafni

	Dafni is a traditional variety from Crete that was nearly lost until re-cultivated by Sotiris and Lampros Lyrarakis. Dafni is the Greek word for laurel, whose aromas its wine are said to resemble. Initial attempts at vinification produced wines that were extraordinarily clean with pear-like aromas and fruit and pleasant, subtle acidity. The wine may have lacked some body and stability by some standards, but at the time I believed it, with certainty, to be the best Greek white wine I had tasted: beautifully vinified, international, original. Several years of additional effort on the part of the highly-motivated Sotiris confirms that, in the right hands, Dafni is capable producing wines on par with the best in Greece.

Debina

	This cultivar, native to both Epirus, in northwest Greece, and Albania, was traditionally blended with the red Bekari and Vlachiko grapes to produce a semidry, sparkling rosé as well as single varietal versions. In spite of the tradition, neither of these two red grapes made the cut when the Zitsa appellation was issued in 1971. Some versions of single-varietal Debina wines are still slightly carbonic and some still off-dry. Green apple aromas come up time and again in descriptions of the wines, but acidity - even from high elevation grapes - is somewhat more moderate than might be expected. It produces wines that are also of moderate alcohol, but having distinct, spicy (in addition to appley) aromas and refreshing character.

Lagorthi

	Employed at present (as far as we know) by only three commercial producers - Gerovassiliou , Oenoforos and Antonopoulos, Lagorthi is nevertheless one of the most highly regarded white Greek cultivars. It is yet another grape revived by a forward-thinking vintner, in this case the late Konstantinos Antonopoulos, the late founder of Antonopoulos Vineyards in Patra, Peloponessos. Wines from Lagorthi can have low to medium alcohol, moderate acidity and exhibit a soft and slightly creamy quality the result of healthy malic acid content. Oenoforos produces a eye-opening version that benefits by skin contact and a general philosophy that malic acid should survive to bottling. Their 2000 was at 12.5% alcohol, a level Tasos Drossiadis, a former Antonopoulos protégé and enologist now working at Oenoforos, expects to lower to 11% in 2001 in order to help improve aromas. The still extraordinary 2000 buttresses Drossiadis' claim that "Lagorthi is one of the great cultivars, like Sauvignon Blanc - only better. It has strength. It is crisp, but creamy. It has plenty of acidity that contributes to its structure, but imperceptibly, resulting in great mouth feel." Lagorthi exhibits a restrained floral nose that Drossiadis does not believe can be over-expressed in vinification.

Malagousia

	Malagousia is an aromatic, citrusy grape thought indigenous to the area just north of Patras, across the Gulf of Corinth. It is the darling of Evangelos Gerovassiliou who, while enologist at Domaine Carras in Halkidiki before establishing his own estate in the late 1980s, first cultivated the grape for its blending potential. In his highly regarded Ktima Gerovasiliou (white) it supports Asyrtiko with middle body and well-extracted fruit aromas. Chateau Matsa produces a mono-varietal Malagousia in Attika, where the rather hot and dry climate accentuates the more complex characteristics of its fruit.

Monemvasia

	Monemvasia is thought to be the original variety (or part of a group) that produced Malvasia (also known as Malmsey or Madeira) when the trade in this genre was centered in the eponymous medieval port town on the southeastern coast of the Peloponessos. Although not likely true, lore has it that name Malvasia is a Venetian bastardization of Monemvasia. By the 1400s, Malvasia production had been largely co-opted by Crete and other Aegean islands. As the port's influence declined, so did the production of the wine. By the beginning of the fifteenth century, emmigration resulting from Ottoman occupation had sealed the fate of wine production in the area. This cultivar grows almost exclusively now on Paros in the Kyklades (Aegean Islands), but genetic analysis by Mihalis Boutaris proves strong relatedness between Monemvasia and the varieties Moschofilero and Asprouda Mykinon, two modern inhabitants of the region close by the ancient port. Parenthetically, his research also found a strong likelihood of relationship between Monemvasia and Gouais blanc, now shown to be a parent, with Cabernet franc, of Chardonnay. Monemvasia has common features with several other grapes supposed to have been utilized in the production of Malavasia, in particular; early ripening, powerful aromas, low acidity and high sugar. Moraïtis estate on Paros produces two wines from Monemvasia. One is Sylloyi, a mono-varietal, the other an Asyrtiko blend called Ktima Moraïtis Lefkes. Nicos Lazaridis also produces two versions, both from his Paraportiano winery on Mykonos. Both are blends with Mandilaria; one a dry red, the other a dry rosé.

Moschato Alexandrias

	Moschato Alexandrias is the Muscat Gordo Blanco, the Lexia of Australia, the Hanepoot of South Africa, Moscatel de Alejandria of Spain, the grape of Moscatel de Setubal of Portugal and the variety used to produce golden raisins in California. It is a type of Muscat generally considered inferior to Moscháto Aspro, but which nevertheless seems to have found some kind of ideal environment on Limnos. There, the variety comprises 70% of production and has earned AO status for both dry and sweet versions, the latter available in both fortified and unfortified versions. It favors dry soil (against rot) and low elevation (for sugar concentration), although plantings in other regions, particularly Makedonia, suggest potential in other environments. It is certainly common in every wine region in Western and Eastern Europe under a wide range of synonyms. On Limnos it is vinified in a number of styles, including fortified and unfortified dessert wines and dry wines. Despite its unfavorable reputation, Greek winemakers seem nevertheless sufficiently intrigued with the variety to continue attempts to mine its potential.

Moschato Aspro

	Moschato Aspro is the classic (and classical) Muscat for which the wines of Samos are renowned and which comprises the sole variety permitted under the OPE Muscat of Samos appellation. Widely grown at present and, it is supposed, in ancient times (though maybe not on Samos), the grape produces a surprising variety of wines, even on Samos island alone. Samos Muscats fall into two main categories: Glykó (vin doux) and Imíglyko (demi doux). The Glykó is made from skinless must arrested with pure grape spirits to a total alcohol level of 15%. The Cooperative of Samos has a monopoly on grape supply, but other companies (Boutaris, Kourtakis) produce appellation Samos Glykó as well. Samos Cooperative's Imiglyko is fermented to completion without the use of spirits. The must ferments on the skins briefly to extract aroma without extracting tannin. Though similar to Glykó on the nose and palate, the resulting wines have considerably (nearly three times) less residual sugar. Samos also produces aged versions utilizing these two processes. Anthemis corresponds to the fortified Glykó, though with slightly lower sugar content. Aged in oak for three to four years, it aquires concentrated aromas, a complex amber hue with light caramel on the palate subdued by pleasant, well-balanced acidity. Samos Nectar (like Imiglyko) is naturally fermented. Must containing high sugar levels is fermented for about three months until alcohol reaches approximately 15%. It is also aged in oak for roughly four years, aquiring an orange hue, powerful toffee aroma and velvety sweet texture on the tongue. Wine writers, past and present tend to wax poetic in their descriptions of this, perhaps the most esteemed of commercially produced Greek wines. Miles Lambert-Gocs writes of another Samos muscat, Palaio Nectar, made from the best Nectar, then aged up to ten years in oak. It is not commercially available. Samos produces dry, local Moscháto which vary in quality, but are a fun twist on the genre (and something of a relief after extended exposure to the sweet versions). The cooperative produces a bottled version called Samena lacking the raw character of local renditions, but intriguing none the less. There is a tradition of resinating dry Moscháto on the island as well. Sacriligious as it may seem, it is, at least, another alternative to sweet wine. Only sweet Moscháto, however, qualifies for OPE status. Samos is not the only producer of Moskháto Aspro of note. The Rhodes appellations provide for both sweet and dry versions, although appellation regulations stipulate a combination of Moschato Aspro with the Trani Muscat, a Venetian introduction. Although the lesser of several important varieties in production, the Rhodian Moschato is held in high regard (though possibly no longer in commercial production). KAIR, the winemaking group of the local agricultural cooperative now focuses on dryer wines. Moskháto Aspro figures in their semi-dry rosé (Imíxiros Rosé, Moulin), but only as a minor component in a blend that includes Mandiariá, Grenache and Athíri. Patras has been a source of quality wines produced from Moskhato Aspro, but acreage has diminished in the appellation zones (Muscat of Patras, Muscat of Rion of Patras). The variety seems best represented recently by the Muscat of Rion by Parparousis.

Plytó

	Plytó is yet another cultivar revived by the Lyrarakis brothers on Crete. Careful low-yield farming and typically thoughtful vinification create a highly unlikely wine, given Crete's southern location. Vineyard elevation is healthy, at over 400 meters, but cannot alone account for the acid spark the wine displays. Clearly, such green fruit is built into the grape. Their version has world-class structure - sufficient roundness to balance acidity and a mild dose of minerals. Whether or not other producers will jump on the bandwagon, the Lyrarakis' have demonstrated that Plyto has the capability to produce wine that is competitive with both European and New World versions of more common varieties.

Prinknádi (also Perkniáriko)

	A rare, speckled white grape cultivated for vinification only by Kimis Chrisohóou. It yields a bold, fruity wine of sturdy alcohol (12%) that stands up nicely to the strong flavors of northern Greek cuisine.

Robola

	Robola (a/k/a Rompola) is a traditional cultivar of the Ionian Islands. A naturally low-yield grape, it is expensive to vinify. It is thought to have been in production in the Ionian Isles for close to 700 years and produces wines of considerable variation, depending on location and elevation. Until genetic analysis proved otherwise, it was assumed to have been a transplant or clone of Ribolla Gaia of Friuli (a/k/a Malvasia of Venice) from neighboring Italy. Likely it is a Greek cultivar with an Italian name received during the Venetian occupation of the Islands. At its best, the variety produces wines of healthy acidity and notable citrus. It is a component grape, with Goustolídi, Pávlos and Skiadópoulo, of the traditional Ionian blend known as Verdéa, which, in keeping with a theme, is the Italian name for a style traditional to both Italy and Greece, likely having ancient Greek roots.

Roditis

	Roditis is grown chiefly in the northern Peloponessos but is widely, if sporadically, present as far north as Makedonia. Roditis is actually a family of closely-related clones varying in skin color from pink to red. Typical Roditis vineyards contain a stew of these various clones, although serious producers have developed a preference for isolating and vinifying distinct clones on the basis of quality or character, the most highly regarded being the Alepou. Perhaps no Greek cultivar can produce so wide a range in quality as Roditis. Many factors can swing the pendulum. Low elevations, high yields and ambivalent winemaking result in feeble, if not embarrassing wines. High elevations, northern exposure and mitigating winds from the Gulf of Corinth make the areas of Patras and Egio in the Peloponessos naturally favorable environments for the culltivation of the variety. Antonopoulos (in Patras) and Oenoforos (in Egio) utilize low-yield fruit and state-of-the-art equipment and philosophies to eke out the utmost acidity and most refined features of the variety to create New World styles. Paraparousis (also in Patra), is the standard for a more staid, but elegant Roditis. Tsantalis, in Makedonia, has a long history of Roditis vinification. The quality of their endeavors has improved steadily especially during the last five years, a period during which this large outfit adapted quickly to meet the ascending standards of the internal Greek and export markets.

Savatianó

	Savatianó accounts for more than 15% of Greece's total vineyard area. It is a forgiving and productive grape, resistant to disease and well at ease in the harsh and dry climate of Central Greece—including Attika, the region where its name was synonymous, until recently, with cheap Retsina. Low in acidity, Savatianó is a bit of a blank canvas. High-yield farming creates fruity, but often nondescript bulk wines, perfect in past times for concealment beneath heavy doses of resin. Often grassy, sometimes peachy or citrusy, careful low-yield farming can produce wines of impressive–though not particularly refreshing–character. On one end of this spectrum, Chateau Mátsa in Attika makes a rather exquisite, dry, mono-varietal Savatianó from old-vine grapes. On the other end, Aléxandros Megapános has created a version so high in dry extracts, levels rival red wine. Little rainfall during the vintage we tasted (2000), super-low yields of under 500 kilos per stremma and Megapanos' extreme pursuit of varietal expression combine to make a fully vinified Savatianó of such fruitful concentration it is difficult to comprehend that its initial attack of glycol is not caused by residual sugar.

Siderítis

	Siderítis is a late-ripening local variety of the northern Peleponnesos prone to achieve both healthy acid and alcohol levels. Thanasis Parparousis produces a classic, mono-varietal version popular among Greek cognoscenti called The Gifts of Diónysos. Though masterfully tamed in the hands of Parparousis, it displays a near culinary level of spice that hints at reasons for the more traditional use of the grape in blends with less gregarious white cultivars.

Tsaoúsi

	A cultivar believed to be of Egyptian origin, Tsaoúsi has been culivated widely throughout the Mediterannean and the Balkans, including in Algeria, Turkey, Bulgaria and Northern Greece. The grapes produce wines of moderate acidity; timely harvesting is the key to sustaining healthy levels. Like so many ancient varieties, it produces mildly fruity wines whose noses tend towards honey. At present it is most commonly associated with Kefaloniá, where it has figured prominently in local wines, gaining renown in the 1980s when Nicholas Cosmetatos blended it with the more crisp Robola to create the most elegant and international Greek whites of their time.

Vilana

	Vilana is the chief white cultivar in Iraklio Prefecture in Crete and the only variety permitted under the Peza OPAP appellation for white wines. Vilana produces fresh, low alcohol wines perfectly suited to quaffing in their region of origin. Despite the appellation, however, Vilana wines can display a wide range of quality. They are prone to oxidize and quality is greatly affected by vineyard elevation, orientation and yields. At its best, Vilana produces Granny Smith fruit on the nose and mouth. Less conscientious treatments can be pleasant and light, but a bit mushy and nondescript as well. The Lyrarakis brothers were the first to cultivate the variety for commercial production during the sixties. They remain on the cutting edge, producing a classic OPAP (100% Vilana) that has won the affection of both well-heeled Cretans and tourists. Their estate white Cuvée Grand Colline shows Vilana at its blending best with Sauvignon blanc and Sylvaner.

Volitsa

	An old native cultivar of the Ahaïa region (Peloponessos), Volitsa is being cultivated and vinified by Oenoforos in nearby Egio. According to Oenoforos enologist Tassos Drossiadis, only high elevation vineyards produce worthy fruit. The first release of wines from this grape, he believes, can be expected with the the 2001 vintage.