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Chrístos Aïdarinis
| News: February 25, 2003 |
Aïdarinis is an open book. He is smart, confident and engaging, an articulate and efficient speaker. With a youthful air and calm manner, he is the Greek version of the gentleman farmer and a man whose personal legacy leads him to view his role as a winemaker entirely within a regional context. A highly qualified spokesman for his region, he could just as easily have been mayor of Gouménissa as prominent vintner. During our visit we could appreciate his insistence on driving through the small streets of the town to visit the family's traditional winery rather than harping on the features of his new one. There was more than pride in this exercise: there was both a desire to educate and the prescient assumption that the past holds something of future value. In this, Aïdarinis shows himself intuitively or deliberately aware of the broad reality of the wine market and of human nature. When the market for Greek wine moves beyond its current limitations in world markets, this real connection to tradition may indeed become a valuable calling card. For Aïdarinis, Gouménissa is an intersection at which any gap between the past and present is easily bridged. As comfortable with modern as with traditional winemaking, he sees Gouménissa as having certain advantages over neighboring Naousa, due to both climate, soil and appellation laws. Gouménissa occupies the northern end of a gentle, sloping plain that meets the Aegean ocean just west of Thessaloniki. The climate is therefore warmer than in Naousa, but still continental, and the Xynómavro there displays a richer aspect . The soil also contains less calcium, resulting in a softer palate. Moreover, the Gouménissa appellation for red wine calls for amelioration with Negóska, a variety local to both Gouménissa and Naousa that may be related to Xynómavro but which produces significantly higher sugar. Framing this terroir in modern terms without abandoning tradition is Aïdarinis' strength.
The wines: Gouménissa Aïdarinis 1999 This was not a great year in the region, but this wine still implies more body than its alcohol level (12%) would suggest. There is plenty of round fruit framed by Pinot Noir-like acidity and a slightly smoky, leathery feel. The Negóska is maximized in this vinification, creating solid fruit, at least. Oak is used to the minimum. On the typical conflict between oak and Xynómavro, Aïdarinis knows where he stands: "The barrel is hard to work with." This less-is-better philosophy pays off in this wine. Any more contact and the raw side would be too much to bear. The fine line between harsh traditions and soft trends is one that Aïdarinis treads with skill. This is a fine Gouménissa despite the limitations inherent in the poor vintage, ample indication of what can be achieved in better years.
As Merlot becomes the ameliorator of choice for vintners of Xynómavro, its strengths and weaknesses become increasingly clear. In this, which may have been an inaugural attempt, the Merlot seems to contribute strong herbal characteristics and great tannins. The middle body that would be part of the goal of this blend, however, is only hinted at. The vintage, or, perhaps, youth of the vines, may be responsible. In a better year, I suspect, this blend, in combination with the regional climate, will create exceptional marriages of fruit and tannin. That I was not completely thrilled about this one example should not be taken to mean that Aïdarinis is on the wrong track. By one measure, what works well in Naousa is likely to yield its own success here. This is a concept worth waiting for.
This is a smart 50/50 blend of Rodítis with Sauvignon Blanc. I especially liked a grapiness that remains intact on the palate. The nose is fine, subtle and herbaceous–chamomile is a close descriptor. I had expected more tropical fruit, but was pleasantly surprised by how well-integrated and round the flavors had become. The wine has good structure and acidity, only a slight loss of momentum at the finish that suggests a little late-season drizzle. Still, a spectacular summer wine. Rosé "Erigon Valley" 2000 Xynómavro is never better than in rosé. This wine proves it. This is a lively and elegant dry rosé that calls to mind blush sparkling wine. There is just enough residual sugar to support the fruit. Neither too austere nor too rich, this exceptional wine shows a masterful touch. Apostagma (fine Grappa) Aïdarinis, in addition to his wines, makes one of the most distinct of the already generally superior Greek grappas. Mono-varietal distillations are quite popular in Greece, preservation of varietal character being the current fashion. Aïdarinis employs a best-of-both-worlds approach, using a few months of barrel age to impart a velvety feel akin to fine brandy, without going so far as to significantly alter the color or lose the clean feel for which such distillations are valued. Subtle as it is in character, with an ephemeral warm tint that comes and goes with the light, it still manages to pack a strong punch. Truly unique. In The Wines of Greece (published in 1990), Miles Lambert-Gocs remarked "it is necessary as yet to go to Macedonia to find Aïdarinis [wines]." Larger producers from other parts of Macedonía consume a healthy share of the area's grape production, capitalizing on the large volume of quality fruit available for appellation and table wines. There are negociant operations and some small producers yet to step fully into the national (perhaps someday international) spotlight. In the meantime, Aïdarinis surely feels both the responsibility and the excitement that comes with being the first of the traditional producers to break out of the pack. By any measure, Chrístos has risen to the occasion. |
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