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Yiannis Argyros (also
Argiros)
Argyros and Yiannis Paraskevopoulos met in 1989. In 1994 they began a fruitful symbiosis in which Paraskevopoulos acted as consulting oenologist for Argyros, and Argyros provided fruit and facilities for the vinification of Santorini wines for Paraskevopoulos' fledgling Gaia Wines. Even as Gaia announces plans to construct its own winery on the island, the relationship is still strong. "He is a good man and a good oenologist," Argyros told us. "Yiannis will continue to use our vineyards as a source of grapes." The pair established new goals for the winery; further technical improvements such as a full conversion to stainless steel, refined barrel selection and a reexamination of vineyard management practices. His vines are an important distinguishing factor in Argyros' wines. Most vines are 50-years-old or less but some are estimated to be around 300-years-old. "These vines," says Argyros, "are great when they are strong. But generally we need to revitalize our vineyards." Where possible, the traditional hillside stefania (crown-trained vines designed to harbor the grapes from the incessant wind) will be replaced with trained rows. The wines, in keeping with Santoriniote tradition, are mainly appellation whites, consisting of Asyrtiko, Athiri, Aidani Aspro and traces of lesser local varieties. Argyros has made inroads with the problematic Aegean red Mandilaria, which is in release but still a work in progress. The wines: Kanava Argyros Santorini 2000 Santorini wines frequently attain higher alcohol levels than the wine's 12.5%, but rarely do they they display this richness of body. The wine is 50% from the first pressing and displays a roundness fattened by concentrated fruit and balanced by good acidity. Stainless steel fermentation guarantees fresh flavors, the secondary varieties provide an ample, herbal nose. Ktima Argyros Santorini 1999 20% of this wine is aged in new barrels before being blended. 45% of the must comes from the 1st pressing. This is a harmonious wine featuring an elegant balance of fruit and acidity. It is one of the few Greek wines we've tasted which can be described as buttery and one of the few Santorini wines having oak contact in which the oak plays an entirely positive role. Ktima Argyros Vareli 1999 This is Argyros' barrel fermented wine. Considering its 6-8 months of contact, the oak is surprisingly inconspicuous, manifested in vanilla cream on the nose, but fully integrated on the palate. It has a soft, creamy texture, ample acidity, complex, concentrated fruit and an endless piquant finish. It is superb winemaking by any standard, likely to stand two or three years in bottle. Ktima Argyros Vareli 2000 We tasted this while still in barrel. It is more angular than previous vintage, less ripe and soft. The 1999 is surely a tough act to follow, but the more tartaric, Sancerre-like 2000 has its own charms. Atalantis 1999 The tannic, red Mandilaria is undergoing renewed experimentation by certain winemakers on Santorini. The key is in developing sufficient sugar under Santorini's harsh conditions and mitigating the effects of its characteristically forceful tannins during vinification. To achieve the latter, the must spends 48 hours with skins and seeds, a period intended to extract as much color as possible while leaving as much tannin as possible behind. The color is still fairly light, but wild cherry flavors are well extracted. Technically speaking the wine has body (alcohol level is 12.8%), but lacks a little structure. It is a pursuit to be encouraged, however. Mastering this red variety will open up a new world for Santorini wines. Vinsanto 1982 Argyros has the distinction of producing this, Greece's most highly coveted dessert wine. Featuring 70% Asyrtiko, 20% Aidani and 10% Athiri, this vintage spent 17 years in barrel, the last year in second-use barrels from his Ktima Vareli. The wine has intense fig and date flavors, pervasive soft caramel and a tangy tamarind finish that nicely arrests sugar on the palate in time for another go. For this reason it may be Greece's most expensive vine product. During the past five years Argyros has joined the list of Greece's elite winemakers. The pressure to perform on an island whose tourist economy is often at odds with winemaking is intense. Wineries such as his must compete for labor with the bustling and more remunerative tourist industry. Recently zoning laws designed to maintain quality of life by limiting expansion, he says, help. Three children; daughter Evangalia, pursuing an education in food science; daughter Eugenia, studying economics; and a son, Matheos, destined himself for oenology, insure a strong and lasting future for the business. Argyros is a serious man who has experienced his share of successes and tragedies. His is the unique perspective of one who has been humbled by life at the height of success. His devotion to winemaking is strong, but quiet. One thing he is not is a self promoter. In a world increasing rich in hype, we found his perspective, like his wines, thoroughly refreshing. |
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Atalantis 
Vinsanto