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Babatzim
Remembering that place, we were sad at first to learn of its replacement. On the way to the new winery, however, driving north from Thessaloniki, through Langadas then Pente Vrisses, we were immediately taken with the oddly un-Greek landscape, especially as we drove gradually uphill past scenery that increasingly reminded us of the American West. When the winery itself finally appeared, insinuated into this breathtaking topography, we looked back only to see Lake Volvi and the Thermaic Gulf shining beautifully in the distance. At that point we lost any lingering fear of change. Perched on a south-facing slope at significant altitude (600 meters), the spacious winery will have a separate distillery employing the company's original stills and room to host what will ultimately become a living museum of the area's rich cultural and artistic traditions. The vineyards are designed like a park, with walkways, benches, fountains and gazebos. It will be a destination where picnics and weddings will mingle with winemaking and education. It is a unique and ambitious concept. Visitors walking along the vineyard paths will encounter plots clearly labeled by variety. The current roster of Greek cultivars includes the red Xinomavro, Negoska and Mavroudi and the white Asyrtiko, Athiri, Moschofilero, Moschato Aspro, Malagouzia and Malvasia di Candia. Western cultivars consist of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet franc and Merlot. For Babatzimopoulos, this new winery realises his dream of continuing the family tradition. For one thing, it will be something of a home away from home for Anestis, wife Angeliki and son Christos. It will also be the center of what has always been a family business. His sister, Margarita, and her husband, Konstantinos Vavatsi, are the backbone of the commercial side of the enterprise. Their children, Christos and Dimitris presumably will join Anestis' son Christos as keepers of the flame. During our summer 2002 trip, we finally had the opportunity to sit down with Anestis and taste his new portfolio. We met him for an evening at the Babatzim retail shop on Arkadioupoleos Street in Thessaloniki that also serves as his business office. The wines:
This wine is made from a Roditis clone (Galanos) which was brought to Makedonia by the late Evangelos Tsantalis. The color of the wine is a fascinating silvery green with grey at the rim. Its nose has strong aromas of strawberry. Soft pear on the palate gives way to a slight bitter note at the finish. A good finish is aided by firm but delicate acidity throughout. Though of medium alcohol, this complex, fruity white ultimately leaves a light, but memorable impression. Malvasia 2001 This 100% Malvasia di Candia is good evidence of Babatzimopoulos' bold side. Returning this variety to its previous home in Greece was not without risks, not least of which are meeting high expectations and standards that have been achieved with the variety in Madeira and Italy. Babatzim's version shows the good acidity one would expect from grapes grown at over 600 meters. More surprising is the pervasive effect on the palate of a small quantity of residual sugar. The ratio of sugar to fruit is such that we would perhaps have prefered more fruit and aroma and a less sweet palate or, better yet, a late harvest version with sugar and alcohol to match the acidity. This should not be taken as entirely critical. We've tasted plenty of Alsation Riesling with less charm and structure. Chardonnay 2001 Chardonnay has mixed results in Greece. We tend to be more critical of Greek Chardonnay than of wines made from indigenous gapes, if only to encourage the continued focus on more interesting cultivars. With some notable exceptions, our number one complaint is against Greek (or any other) Chardonnay to which too much oak has been applied. Due in part, he says, to bad childhood memories of scrubbing barrels, oak is not Babatzimopoulos' trap. Stainless steel is the sole vehicle for this fruity, but still lively, version. Its aroma is strong and distinct (for Chardonnay), consistently fruity on the palate with a strong finish. Rose 2001 Whatever else has been said about Babatzimopoulos' past winemaking, he has never produced a rosé of questionable quality or sophistication. His 2001 is no exception. Of 100% Xynomavro, perhaps one of two of Greece's ideal rosé varieties, this shows a purple veil over its otherwise rose color and appealing grey tints on its edge. Simultaneously ripe and green on the palate, it is fresh, elegant and summery quaffing at its best--a rosé for all occasions. Merlot 1999 Good Greek Merlot is hard to come by. Certainly the success of this one has much to do with good vineyard elevation and poor, rocky soil. Second-use oak, a method all too rare in Greece, is a bonus. This wine spends eight months in it. This reminds us of good California Merlot before the era of port-like concentration and alcohol level. The wine shows nice, deep color, round, gentle fruit of depth and smooth, velvety texure. It is an altogether appealing wine. Cabernet 1999 Whether from his childhood phobia or from smart winemaking, Anestis' fear of oak benefits his Cabernet as it does all his reds. In this case eight months in new and old oak adds a pleasant note to this wine's dark berry nose. The color, which is quite opaque, hints at good concentration of fruit. This is confirmed on the palate, though the smoothness of texture belies the depth of the fruit. The finish is not spectacularly long, but is aided by a profusion of friendly tannins in place of lingering fruit. This is a subtle effort, more a sipping wine than a food wine, but a very good sipping wine. In the middle of my tasting notes I found a scrawled message to myself which reads, "I could drink two bottles." "Xynomerlot" 2000 The native Makedonian Xynomavro variety is rapidly developing several faces. Its traditional austere acidic and often leathery side is not for everyone. In reaction, more producers are successfully exploring its potential fruitiness. Babatzimopoulos, who has struggled against criticism about this approach in the past must feel somewhat vindicated. In meantime he seems to have honed a style that we think many can agree displays the Xynomavro's best fruity face. This blend of Xyno with Merlot has a deep, dark berry color with purple on the rim. This wine packs plenty of fruit without being either heavy or cloying. Well balanced, its structure is subtle, but essential in supporting the start-to-finish berry flavors that hang pleasantly even on the finish. It is a stunning, characterful amelioration of Xynomavro, entirely unlike its more austere counterparts from Naousa, half a region to the west. |
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Xynomavro/Merlot
