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CAIR Rhodes
Cair, the cooperative of Rhodes, was established in 1928. The cooperative is proud of a track record that includes the preservation of the island's winemaking legacy, shepherding the establishment of the island's appellation status in 1971 and competing successfully in the Greek market during the quality revolution of the past two decades. These are no minor accomplishments for a cooperative. It is fair to say that the island of Rhodes itself, with a winemaking tradition that undoubtedly began in ancient times and an exceptional climate that brings moisture during the winter and cooling winds during the dry summer, makes the job a little easier. Cair, it is also fair to say, has not squandered this resource.
Rhodes is known mainly for three varieties, the red Amorgiano (known as Mandilaria elsewhere in Greece), Athiri and Muscat and Trani Muscat, the latter having been introduced during thirty years of Italian rule in the first half of the twentieth century. While Mandilaria and Athiri figure as secondary grapes in other regions, the favorable climate gives them greater potential on Rhodes. Moreover, the Athiri is featured in sparkling wines employing both Methode Champenoise and Methode Charmat. These sparkling wines constitute an important part of Cair's strong reputation in Greece. Cair has its own vineyards where ongoing experimentation with imported varieties such as Cabernet and Grenache have begun to flesh out its portfolio. Cabernet, in fact, has become an increasing presence in the Rhodian vineyard, reasonably well suited to the slopes of Mount Attaviros, where the bulk of the island's wine grapes are grown. Contracts with growers, some as long as twenty years, and an all-important scientific role in the supervision of its growers' vineyards insure the quality of fruit the winery receives. We tasted Cair's wines with French-trained oenologist Evi Hatzistanatiou. Noticing a great deal of creativity in the development of Cair's varied portfolio of wines, we sought her description of the cooperative's guiding philosophy. "We have all these resources; an elegant white variety that makes fine wine and Brut, a red variety suitable even for dessert wines, the Muscats and French varieties. It would be a shame not explore every possibility they present. This is a dynamic market. This is how we distinguish ourselves."
2002 Ithoinos This is a blend of 70% Athiri and 30% Trani Muscat. This limited production, experimental wine has a gold hue with green about the rim and a fragrant jasmine nose. Medium-bodied and dry, it has a spicy ginger palate with faint fruit, and a pleasant finish capped by a white fruit flavors. 2002 Athiri Rodou This wine from stainless steel-fermented mountain-grown Athiri has a light yellow color, and subtle aromas of tropical fruit and green apple. Medium to light-bodied, it has a lively palate replete with citrus and spice and malic acidity at the finish. 2002 Rodos 2400 This 100% Athiri has a clear light color and aromas of peach apple and flowers a rich, but quietly fruity palate and pleasant, refreshing finish. 2002 Oinofos This 100% Athiri is made from old vines growing at 600 meters. Pale gold in color, it has a complex nose of green pepper and smoke and a thin palate notable for its combination of stewed fruit and pronounced citric acidity. Acetic acidity at the finish is accompanied by cut wood. Cair Brut This Athiri-based sparkling wine nicely balances this variety's stone fruit (apricot) flavors and sweet, floral nature. Fruitiness is offset by alcohol and a hint of bitterness on the finish. 2002 Rouvinio Rosé This dry rosé, a blend of Mandilaria and Trani Muscat has a pink-copper hue and nose of red cherry lichee. A surprisingly serious palate shows tomato, sweet pepper and slight tannins. 2001 Knight's Cellar Cabernet Cherry red in color with cherry, dried fruit and cut wood nose, this light-bodied Cabernet has slight fruit and is somewhat by dominated by bitter oak at the finish. 2000 Archontiko This blend of Mandilaria and Grenache is a deep red with strong purple influence. Its nose shows some dried fruit and cedar, its palate rich with, prune, cake spice and vanilla. Good finish with earthy, dried fruit aftertaste. 2002 Moulin This nouveau-styled Mandilaria has a light red color, spicy plum nose and a quiet palate of red fruit and tomato. Amandia N/V This dessert wine is made from the red Mandilaria. Fortified and full-bodied, it has a mahogany/coffee color, nose of prunes, raisins and nuts and flavors of mocha, toffee, praline and pecan. A healthy dose of residual sugar is balanced by alcohol. A long finish benefits from the aftertaste of coffee and mocha. Muscat of Rhodes This dessert wine, produced from a blend of White and Trani Muscats, has a gold color and aromas of peach and citrus and late harvest-like spice. Flavors of peaches, white fruit and orange peel dominate the palate. A long, complex finish features grappa flavors and a sensational, nutty end taste. |
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Muscat of Rhodes
