 |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Nikos Douloufakis
Douloufakis is young, smart and ambitious. He is also brave. He secured a limited amount of grant money from the EU to support his vision of fine wine production, but has risked all his own in order to make it happen. He is at the uncomfortable stage when all the plans have been implemented, but the fruits of his labor have yet to realized. As heavily invested as he is, corners must still be cut. With no room in the budget for machinery, all bottling is still done by hand. In 1997, annual production (of one product) was 9,000 bottles. Now it had risen to 40,000 bottles. In a region in which the intense heat can be deadly to grapes, Douloufakis has embarked on a planting program that would cause vineyardists in friendlier environments to pull their hair out. In 1998 he vinified nothing at all because because his grapes suffered sun burn. Still he continues to expand cultivation of numerous varieties over a patchwork of 8 hectares. His goal is to have a total of 10 hectares of vines. In his favor are the existence of other growers to make up shortfalls and markets for any overproduction. Even so, the breadth of cultivars on his property is staggering. The current roster includes the "cosmopolitan" varieties Cabernet, Merlot, Syrah, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Sylvaner and test plantings of Pinot Noir. From Italy he has brought Sangiovese and Barbera. A bevy of traditional Cretan cultivars— Tachtás, Vilana, Soultanina, Liatiko and Kotsifali—accompany the super-Greeks Malvasia Aromatika and Moschato Aspro. Syrah, Merlot and the Italian varieties are still immature. Interestingly, because the local varieties were traditionally incorporated in blends, Douloufakis, on his return to the area, found he knew little about their individual characteristics. The last few years, therefore, have been spent experimenting with them and acquainting himself with their distinguishing attributes. He is particularly piqued by the potential of the Moschato Aspro and Malvasia Aromatika. These, he has found, do especially well in the extreme climate. The Liatiko, the only cultivar with appellation status in Dafnes, is more problematic. While he has had some success in producing an appellation Dafnes, he feels his future focus for the variety lies in recreating Malvasia. Certainly this is a development worth watching. Douloufakis is amused by the hype surrounding organic farming. "Crete has an advantage in the transition to natural cultivation: we never adopted unnatural methods. The only obstacle I face in getting certification is the certification fee. Unfortunately, the fee being what it is, it means that only my appellation Dafnes (Liatiko) is currently certified." At this time, Douloufakis has four labels in production: Vilana 2000 Douloufakis is one of a very small group of winemakers exploring the fine wine potential of this aromatic, but somewhat unstable grape. Low yields and careful vinification unlock complex, spicy aromas and soft fruit with tropical flavors such as banana and clementine. Even at 250-300 meters, the low end of its ideal altitude range, his thirteen- year-old plants yield sufficient acidity to provide backbone and refreshment. Intense secondary aromas add an exotic postscript to what is ultimately an intriguing, light summer wine. Sauvignon Blanc 2000 This wine, from six-year-old plants, displays all the intensity of fruit and aroma one would expect from so southerly a region. What is surprising is how much green remains in color and on the palate. The characteristic bitterness of the variety is highlighted (Douloufakis uses the descriptor yellow pepper), but overall it shows just how well Sauvignon Blanc works in the lime-laden soil and at the favorable elevations of Crete. Dafnes 1999 This, from relatively young (6 years) Liatiko vines, shows youthful intensity. According to Douloufakis, extracting color is his biggest challenge. The intense aromas, acidity and a slight astringency make this varietal one of Greece's most unique and challenging. The maturity of the fruit in this wine is what makes it all work. Cabernet 1997 Douloufakis must be one of the few winemakers at this latitude to produce a Cabernet without off aromas. The wine shows a maturity due, in part, to vines now entering their second decade. It shows good color, has a soft mouth feel and a richness that contrasts with most reds of the region. This is an auspicious beginning for Cretan Cabernet. Douloufakis has a lot of work ahead of him. The wines we tasted will surely continue their development. At some point he will have to make difficult decisions about his portfolio based on his experiments in the vineyard. Crete is a region of huge potential waiting for winemakers of vision to seize its creative opportunities. Good natured, ambitous and persistent, Douloufakis seems to have the right stuff. He is a winemaker to watch and support in the coming years. |
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
