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Evharis Estate
Eva is indeed the architect behind the Evharis winery, crediting her love of the German winemaking tradition for its inspiration. Her architectural influence is also apparent throughout the grounds and buildings. The estate, home to a number of buildings as well as 24 hectares of vines, is at once one of Greece's most beautiful and practical. The vineyards were planted about ten years ago on a plateau surrounding the winery and within a canyon that cuts southeast through the property. The calcium-rich walls of this canyon reveal its prehistoric past--the entire area was once a lake bed. A system of landscaped roads, paths and walkways connect many small, renovated buildings. The scent of wild herbs is pervasive. The property even houses its own diminutive church. The environment is so perfectly diverse and well-kept that, but for the profusion of vines, it could easily be confused with a park. The practicality of the estate's design is also readily apparent. There is no vine beyond about a ten minute distance from the winery's crushers. The estate's variety of distinct growing environments has favored much experimentation. Driving about the property in first gear, Haris Antoniou provided us a running commentary on the contents and planting history of each plot. While the estate in general benefits from cool mountain air that runs down the riverbed through the property towards the sea--and from cooling ocean breezes that run back up--the suitability of each variety to its plot is painstakingly considered. Plantings include the white varieties Asyrtiko, Athiri, Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay. Red plantings include Agiorgitiko, Merlot, Syrah and Grenache. The estate also grows the blanc de gris Roditis. These grapes currently find their way into seven products: red and white estate blends, two varietals (Syrah and Asyrtiko), a red and a white under their second label, Ilaros, and a semi sparkling wine. Boehme and Antoniou, who maintain a home on the estate, have both grown comfortably into their roles as winemakers. Antoniou, who displays a remarkable learning curve, not only supervises all wine production, he is also the winery's most exacting and objective critic. While proud of the estate's accomplishments (a wall of fame in the tasting room attests to perennial success in international competitions), Antoniou clearly sees the distance still to travel. "Our oldest vines are ten years old", he says, casually, "what kind of wine can you expect from ten-year-old vines?" There is still much to learn. he believes. "I will be satisfied when my reds and my Asyrtiko receive 90+ ratings." "Other wine regions in Greece have seen huge investments in research and development. There, one can see the progress that has been made. A team of five scientists at the University of Athens is analyzing a bacterial infestation that can occur during Asyrtiko's fermentation. This is a problem everywhere where the variety is grown. In other cases, however, the research has no bearing on our region. For instance, problems we may have here can be unique to own soils and microclimate. Unfortunately, we are left to fend for ourselves." Antoniou, intrigued with Megara's past role as a wine producing region and its unique location on the route between Central Greece and the Peloponessos, undertook to explore and document its history. In 2002 he organized a symposium in which experts from a number of disciplines focused on the history of winemaking in the area. The entire event was recorded and compiled into a book published by the winery. Antoniou is now occupied more with the future than with the past. Echoing a common theme in the Greek wine industry these days, he believes "the future of wine in Greece is the vineyardist. We have learned everything we can from the French. We have every tool for making wine in the winery. We must learn for ourselves how to manage our indigenous cultivars." It is true indeed that Evharis' winemaking facilities could not be improved. State-of-the-art presses, fermenters and refrigeration insure that modern technological standards are being met. Built on three levels, the gravity-flow winery is one of Greece's most efficient. Volume, however, is not the goal. "Our production cap", says Antoniou, "will be at 250,000 bottles per year. Right now we do half that. When I am about to retire, I will be happy to double our output. Then I shall devote all my time to making wine." In the meantime, Boehme and Antoniou are pursuing a steady improvement in quality. Domestic sales are steady and exports to the US are on the horizon. The high profile of the winery is aided by its smart visitor center and meeting facilities. A function hall, replete with kitchen and al fresco dining (with a view of distant Salamina Bay) is a popular destination for banquets, seminars, conferences and other events--especially wine events. The wines: Evharis Estate White 2002 This blend of 75% Asyrtiko and 25% Chardonnay is light yellow with green hints at the rim. The nose displays some ripe citrus and Asyrtiko-style glycol. Palate is lightly fruity with round pear and red apple. Light finish. Chardonnay 2002 This low production (1,500 bottles) Chardonnay has a light yellow color and delicate white fruit nose. Its palate is round, more pear than apple, fattened by good alcohol content (12.5%). Acidity is light, finish is medium long. One of the cleaner Greek Chardonnays we have tried. Asyrtiko 2002
Ilaros white 2002 This second-label blend of 70% Savatiano with 30% Roditis surprised us. Light yellow with green tints, its nose combines citrus with a little green apple. Its austere middle is not without fruit, but more notable is its lively, refreshing mouth feel and a long finish ending in an aftertaste of bitter almond. A truly well-balanced and charismatic summer wine. Evharis Estate Red 2001 This wine is a blend of 65% Syrah with 25% Merlot and 10% Grenache. Medium-dark garnet in color, it has a complex nose light on fruit and wood, rich in molasses and cocoa. Medium-bodied with dark fruit flavors and a soft texture, it leaves an elegant, bitter chocolate aftertaste. Merlot 2000 Deep red with purple rim, it has a light, dark berry nose. Fruit is mature and understated, tantalizingly behind-the-scenes. Excruciatingly soft tannins combine with full alcohol to interesting effect. Merlot 2002 This wine has an excellent deep garnet red color. A medium nose of red fruit and berries gives way to a quiet, youthful palate. Tannin is nowhere to be found, resulting in a lingering softness that gives the wine a distinctly feminine quality. Evharis Estate Red 1999 This blend of Syrah, Merlot and Grenache was our favorite Evharis red. Its deep color leans towards mahogany Its fruit, not surprisingly more mature than the in the 2001 we tasted. Same complex nose, but less woody. Soft, rich flavor enhanced by tobacco. Syrah 2001 The 2001 Syrah has a purple color leaning towards red. Spicy nose with hints of dried flowers and fruit. Medium to full-bodied, fruit and tannin come on strong, but resolve to a gentle finish. Comes in like a lion, goes out like a lamb. Syrah 2000 Dark red in color, this Syrah's nose blends sweet oak and tar. Round, delicious fruit--fatter than the 2001--and more lively. Ilaros Red 2002 This second-label value wine has a medium garnet color and sweet, herbal nose. 60% Agiorgitiko and 40% Grenache, the pleasing tannins of both varieties are abundant. Nice dried fruit flavors, very well balanced. Eva (semi Sparkling) 2001 This light, sparkling wine shows Moschofilero's spicier qualities without the cloying skin extracts that often keep wines from the variety from refreshing. The wine has plenty of residual sugar, but solid acidity and crisp fruit prevent it from overwhelming. |
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