Yiannis and Mary Flerianos (Ambelones Flerianou)

News: December 15, 2002 Vintage Report 2002-Flerianou

Mary and Yiannis Nutshell... Company Name:   Ambelones Flerianou     Location:   Kidonies, Patra, Peloponessos     Winemakers, oenologists: Yiannis and Mary Flerianos         Products: Chardonnay       White     Nemea     Mavrodafni     To contact this company click here       Flerianos vineyards Mary Flerianou had been a well known consulting oenologist in Greece for 24 years before realizing her dream of creating a small vineyard and winery where she could handcraft her own wines. The dream became a reality in 1993. In the village of Kidonies near Patra, she planted 2 hectares of Chardonnay and Robola grapes. A year later, a small winery was finished. Now, ten years later, Mrs. Flerianou has an expanded repertoire which includes Nemean Agiorgitiko and a Mavrodafni. Her son Yiannis, who earned his masters degree in Oenology at UC Davis, came on board in 2002. We first met Yiannis during a chance encounter while he was working for Hatzimichali at Atalante. On his return to Greece Yiannis Flerianos had planned to spend a few years gaining experience at one or more of Greece's more prestigious wineries. That plan ended with the unexpected death of his father last year. Now Yiannis is devoted to integrating the knowledge gained in California with the possibilities of Peloponesian winemaking . From the beginning the philosophy has been to combine the traditional Greek winemaking ethic with modern methodologies. The role of the winemaker is, according to Yiannis and his mother, "to finish what has begun in the vineyard. We believe that winemaking starts there. Technology is useful only in so far as it enables us to preserve the qualities that we work so hard to achieve in the vineyard. Yet each step in winemaking is also a parameter that makes a unique contribution". Grapes from the estate are hand-picked. The decision when to harvest is made weighing the dual standards of sugar content and flavor. Agiorgitiko for the Nemea is sourced from a grower in the region with whom the family has contracts. The winery is fully insulated and fermenters and barrels are kept under controlled refrigeration. White wines are inoculated with selected yeast and fermented at low temperature to highlight freshness and bouquet. The Nemea is fermented at higher temperatures without inoculation to maximize extraction and complexity. Fermented in stainless steel, both the Chardonnay and Nemea spend six to eight months in a blend of new and up to twice-used barrels, a philosophy born of a mindfulness of the dangers of domination by oak flavors. Their Robola ages briefly in steel at low temperature prior to bottling in order to develop its fermentation bouquet. The wines are bottle aged before release, from two to four months for the Robola, up to eight months for the Nemea. Every bottle is inspected and hand-wiped before being labeled Vines Our tasting with Yiannis and his mother took place in Vari, just southeast of Athens, was particularly well thought out—a model presentation. The wines: Chardonnay 2000 This wines has a yellow color just slightly affected by oak. Its nose is strong, notable for cream soda vanilla and dried fruit. It has medium to full body with a rich, round palate, good backbone and finish. This wine has great complexity for a Greek Chardonnay, some filbert nut flavors and ensuing light bitterness and a dried fruit end taste. Oak is quite noticeable, but more like a perfume than as a presence on the palate. Chardonnay 2001 (Barrel sample) This Chardonnay, sampled prior to the completion of its barrel term and bottle aging, exhibited green tints and a touch of gray on its rim. It has a smoky nose, round pear with semi tropical fruit, a slight bitterness we came to associate with the vineyard generally. Future plans for this Chardonnay include possible barrel fermentation and efforts to bring out more middle body. We found this wine very modern in style. Flerianou White 2001 This 100% Robola from what Mary Flerianou describes as a "problematic" vintage bodes well for what can be achieved during a less problematic year. Terroir means everything for this variety and this pleasing soft, round version is quite distinct from its chalky Ionian counterparts. Medium in body, but subtle, its aromas are earthy, herbaceous and sweet. Its palate features ripe pear in abundance offset by subtle bitterness (burnt almond). Extremely well balanced. We had the opportunity to do vertical tasting of Nemea Flerianou Nemea 1995 This wine has deep color and a smoky nose. Like all the Flerianou Nemeas, its palate has a lot of dark berry and black currant. For all this darkness, there is lightness, too, in the form of quiet acidity and gentle palate. Nemea 1997 This typicist Nemea wine shows great raw color of deep plum. Its aroma is air-filling and rich, reminiscent of ruby port. Its well-extracted fruit is accompanied by roasted coffee. Like the 1995, it remains, despite its darker characteristics, lighter than expected drinking. Nemea 1998 This wine has a hint of orange on its rim, a nice attack of mature fruit and phenolic extraction that brings out some warm, Tempranillo-like flavors. Aiding in the experience are prolific soft tannins. This is good honest wine, true to type, though like all the Nemeas, lighter than its color implies. Mavrodafni 2000 This wine is a blend of 60% Mavrodafni and 40% Korinthiaki (currant). In need still of a few more months in barrel due to a fresh and lively personality Yiannis would prefer to have tamed. Nevertheless it bodes well as a vehicle for these varieties' unique combination of plummy, rustic flavors. We will taste it again in 2003 in order to provide a more up-to-date report.

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