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Nikos Fountis
| News: February 25, 2003 |
In 1990, convinced by the Greek oenologist, agronomist and author Haroula Spinthiropoulo that his Ramnista vineyards produced the best fruit in the region, Fountis took the bold step of abandoning his negociant model in favor of estate-level winemaking. Fountis had farmed apples and peaches as well, but prices for these suffered a severe downturn--further incentive to devote his efforts to winemaking. Within a few years, Fountis became one of Naousa's most original and exciting producers.
The difference in fruit sourced from the company's two vineyard sources shows the importance of terroir in the production of Xynomavro. Grapes from both the Ramnista and Strantza vineyards are destemmed, then undergo classic red fermentations. Wines from both vineyards spend the appellation-requisite year in barrel. Neither of Founti's reds show the effects of too much new oak--an advantage in distinguishing the character of each vineyard as well as evidence of his clear understanding of international winemaking standards. Founti's Naousaia red shows the rich tannin structure for which Ramnista is well known. It matures more rapidly in barrel and bottle than the Strantza-sourced Ktima Founti red. The Strantza vineyard produces fresher fruit flavors that integrate more slowly during the year in bottle Fountis prescribes his wines before their release. In his Olganos, Merlot is blended to add softness and depth of color to the otherwise nervous Xynomavro.
Our first visit to the winery was hosted by Founti's daughter, Georgia, a young woman immersed already in the business and poised to take an increasing role in the future. Her fiancee, Giorgos Topouzis, seems well on his way to playing a role as well. Visitors to the winery, a participant in the Wine Roads of Macedonia program, will find a warm welcome and a comfortable tasting room and shop. Adjacent to the winery is a family-owned taverna which lights up the night sky in this calm corner of Naousa, serving, among other traditional specialties, the delicious, fresh trout for which the region is known. Fountis wines: Naousaia 1998 This 100% Xynomavro shows the true, semitransparent color of the variety. Soft aromas of wood permeate the fruit in its nose. It feature fresh cherry on the palate with firm, but polite acidity, medium body and a velvety mouth feel, its round fruit enveloped in soft leather. Its finish is elegant, layered with gentle tannins.
From select grapes from Founti's .6 hectare Karoutsa, Strantza vineyard, this appellation Naousa Xynomavro has a light color: deep rose with purple highlights. It is yet fruitier than the Naousaia, though a little less concentrated, the fruit flavors showing signs of maturity from aging and less tannin also. It is clean wine, with ample acidity to match its fruit. Olganos 1999 This blend of 50% Xynomavro, 50% Merlot, is hard not to compare to Pinot Noir. The Merlot adds color, certainly, and deepens the palate, but the acidity of the Xynomavro is well on display. In addition to red berry aromas, its nose shows some wood, particularly vanilla. It has a fine finish, characterized by the survival of fruit in its aftertaste. It is an interesting application of carbonic maceration to Xynomavro. Rosé 2001 This semi dry rosé from Xynomavro has raspberries in its color, its nose and in its fruit. In its aromas, the raspberry effect is particularly intense, accompanied as it is by some candy. At the same time that this wine wears its fruit on its sleeve, its residual sugar competes with formidable acidity, some phenolics resulting from quite a bit, it seems, of cold temperature skin contact and lively flavor and feel of CO2. As if that weren't enough, its finish features some down-to-earth vegetation. One of the most complex rosés we have ever tasted, we appreciated its intensity and extraction on all fronts. Founti White 2001 This cold-fermented blanc de noir has gray tints and complex aromas of fruit and flowers. Its soft fruit is supported by substantial minerality and crisp, clean acidity. It shows tremendous extraction and full, firm body.
This 100% blanc de noir Xynomavro is fermented in new oak barrels. It has subtle, bready aromas and a brassy color with yellow highlights. Its pleasant palate reveals some concentration of dry extract layered with oak flavors over minerals. This is truly an original wine, a unique endeavor, as far as we can tell, in Greece;: a wine whose presence of wood creates a sort of elegant, well-crafted alternative to retsina. Diaiyia 2001 This, perhaps the most original white wine of quality we have found in Greece, blends Xynomavro with Roditis and Opsimo Edessis. It has a coppery color and fresh, fruity aroma. Its palate features flavors of barely ripe peach, nectarine and some green apple. It is extraordinarily crisp and laden with minerals. It has a stunning, long finish with fruit to spare and a peach pit end taste. It has such a lively fruitiness, it is simply the most refreshing flavor we have encountered in a wine. It is to be sipped as one would a lime rickey, mint julep or apple martini, preferably in good company and just before sunset. It is packaged cleverly in a clear bottle, with an appropriately playful and colorful label that is applied in reverse and read through the wine on the bottle. It is, in addition to being well produced, a fun drink, a masterpiece of product development. |
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Diaiyia 
