Greek wine maker profile: Dimitrios Katsaros of Larissa

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Asimina Fragou

Asimina Fragou tending the vineyards

Nutshell...

Company Name:

Asimina Fragou

Location:

Spata, Attika, Central Greece

Winemaker:

Asimina Fragou

Consulting Oenologist:

Yiannis Alageorgiou

Products:

Estate White

Chardonnay

Cabernet

To contact this company click here

Winery entrance

The Fragou winery is located in Spata, Attika, a short drive from Athens. The area, Mesogeia, has always been a traditional source of wines for Athens. Asimina Fragou, the current owner, is the third generation in her family to produce wine. Architecturally, her 230-year-old winery may be Greece's most picturesque. A diminutive stone villa, it has recently been renovated and technologically upgraded. The original patatiri (the stone cistern in which grapes were traditionally pressed by foot) remains in view.

Cellar

Fragou's portfolio is small and focused. She produces three labels which combine to create an annual production of approximately 30,000 bottles. Fragou wines have a distinctly modern feel, this in spite of the fact that the Spata vineyards supplying fruit for her signature white Savatiano are in one of Greece's hottest regions. Fragou's inherited skill with the variety and her diligent vineyard management undoubtedly account for the success of this wine. While the Savatiano is the only estate wine she produces, her signature is written on the Chardonnay and Cabernet she sources from the Peloponessos. Consulting oenologist Yiannis Allageorgiou has been instrumental in helping to achieve stylistic goals.

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Courtyard view

The new airport close by in Spata (but a reasonable distance from the village where Fragou's winery is located) has taken a toll on this traditional grape growing region. Just as winemakers of vision were beginning to mine its potential, the airport itself, new highways and other development have fractured properties, interrupted or slowed transportation routes and created environmental concerns. For Fragou, the airport has created insurmountable limitations on her ambitions as a winemaker. A new, expanded winery and vineyards farther north in Viotia is in the works.

The wines:

Estate White (100% Savatiano) 2000
Fruity, earthy and clean, this wine shows the potential of this variety if well-managed in the vineyard. It is light-bodied but has sleek, tropical substance. A hint of spice at the outset resolves to an exotic, but pleasant, finish reminiscent of Carambola or other tropical green fruit. This is a wine with no acid edge, the paucity of which, however, is compensated for in finesse.

Amenities. The rustic, elegant interior is also popular for meetings and special events

Chardonnay 2000
The grapes for this Chardonnay are grown in Pylos, at the southwestern tip of the Peloponessos. The climate, similar, if anything, to California's Central coast or Australia's inland regions, produces ripe wines of naturally high extraction. This stainless steel fermented version is clean with more tropical fruit on the palate than on the nose. The nose we foundly aromatic, oddly reminiscent of Gewurtz. By American standards, it is light, but has a citrus aspect that adds to a feeling of structure. A remarkably simple and focused wine.

Cabernet Sauvignon 1998
The grapes for this Cabernet are grown in Messinia (southern Peloponessos), an emerging region increasingly known for its production of negociant wines. The climate there leaves a very particular mark on Cabernet, a sometimes eucalyptus, sometimes earthy, cedar nose that is unique to the region, though similar to the mustier aromas of certain South African and Australian reds. This aroma dominates Fragou's Cabernet, but is supplanted in the mouth by rich, dark fruit. Oak flavors are subtle, but ubiquitous, tannins young but quiet. This is a style now finding wider acceptance in the wine trade in America, with consumers sure to follow.

The new winery in Viotia will likely inspire some new initiatives. With strong focus in the existing portfolio, there are risks involved. Fragou will certainly make the switch to a larger percentage of estate grown grapes, with Cabernet, Chardonnay and more native cultivars likely candidates. While new vineyards make stylistic changes almost inevitable, Fragou's modern sensibilities and track record of diligent farming will undoubtedly keep current standards intact. Although the present winery, unfortunately, will have to assume a different role, this will likely be Fragou's only regret.

During our visit we were hosted by Stamatina, Asimina's daughter. Her warm welcome and articulate presentation inspired confidence in the long term prospects of this family venture.

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