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Haggipavlu (Olympus Winery)
Of all Cyprus' producers, Haggipavlu has been one of the least optimistic about the export potential of that island's native cultivars. In an article in the British wine journal Harpers two years ago, he is quoted as saying, "we have tried spending money on marketing Cypriot wines overseas, and we have tried blending indigenous varieties with international ones. But it doesn't work, simply because if consumers don't know something, they don't buy it. The only solution is to use known varieties and to produce high-quality wines at the lowest cost possible." The decision to begin the company's first off-island venture in the Mantinia region makes a lot of sense for a variety of reasons. Firstly, Haggipavlu is reputed to have purchased the facility itself at a bargain price. Secondly, Mantinia, though not well known outside of Greece, is one the country's most highly prized appellations and provides a built-in market. Mantinia's one appellation grape, the blanc de gris Moschofilero has long been considered one of Greece's best--and most exportable--white wine varieties. Mantinia, despite the high regard in which it is held, suffers from a deficit of of indigenous producers. Much of the region's output is produced by companies from elsewhere in Greece that vinify in local facilities in order to satisfy appellation requirements. The existence of a new local producer ups the ante for outsiders and literally gives Haggipavlu a certain pride of place among appellation Mantinia labels. Haggipavlu's range is not limited only to Moschofilero, however. A strong commitment to red wines reflects his awareness of their importance in export markets. In keeping with his philosophical attachment to proven varieties, Cabernet is sourced from Greece's leading Cabernet region, Pylos, farther south on the Peloponessos. Since turnaround is fair play in Greece's fractious domestic market, Agiorgitiko, the country's leading red cultivar (as well as the leading red variety for export), is sourced and vinified in Nemea. By focusing on three varietal wines, one each from two of Greece's strongest grapes and the third from the world's most in-demand red variety, and by hitting the exact ratio of red to white needed to transfer the group to export markets, Haggipavlu has shown tremendous strategic acumen. If his venture into Greece seems a bit formulaic, so be it. Other decisions make it clear that this volume producer also has an abiding awareness that making wine requires a lot more than straight business sense. In this regard, he has shown extraordinary management skill. Serious winemaking requires intelligence and sensitivity. Haggipavlu found and hired a winemaker replete with both to lead his fledgling winery. Better yet, he has left him largely to his own devices. Oenologist Sakis Sylaidos traveled to France in the mid-1980s in pursuit of an artist's life. Like many young painters, he cut a path to Paris. A temporary job in cuvage, however, soon changed the direction of his life. Immediately fascinated with winemaking, he made a commitment that was rewarded three years later by an employer-subsidized Dijon education. In all, Sylaidos spent 14 years in France, mainly in Burgundy and Beajoulais. His tenure in France included firsthand experience with organic farming. Three years ago, ready to return to Greece, Sylaidos jumped at the opportunity to participate in and head winemaking at Haggipavlu's new venture. Sakis' Burgundian foundation combined with his artist's sensitivity to nature serves him well in Mantinia. And being both an outsider and a native has given him objectivity on the one hand and the ability to integrate with his social environment on the other. The former rescues him from assumptions about the 'correct' approach to Moschofilero; the latter is essential for a winemaker who, for the time being, must source all his grapes from local farmers. "Moschofilero", he says, " is a wine for drinking young. Sometimes it reminds me of Champagne." There is no question of the French influence on his version. A fermentation in stainless steel, unfettered by extended skin contact or other technological methodologies, preserves the malic side of the grape and a lively, mineral edge more reminiscent of Chablis than the often perfumey Moschofilero currently in favor in Greece. Oak aging is not even a consideration. The second pressing is consigned to the local market. They key to the success of this approach, according to Sylaidos, is yield. "Lower yields", he believes, "will contribute some aromas of lemon, rose and exotic fruit, but most importantly it will impart more texture to the must, a more pleasing mouth feel." The road to low yields has been paved by a unique personal investment. "We buy our Moschofilero grapes very carefully, but sometimes growers don't understand the long term advantages of lowering yields. During the three years I have been here, though, we have seen improvements." When asked how his growers have been convinced thus far, he smiles. "It helps that I live in one of the villages. I see them every day. I eat with them, I drink with them. Trust has been built." Experimentation is also key. "Every year I try something different in small batches." This information accrues with each vintage. Oak use, however, is one area which is not subject to much experimentation. Stepping gingerly down a tight spiral staircase to the winery's barrel room, we were treated to a site rarely seen in Greece; no new barrels. In this matter, Sylaidos displays admirable wisdom. "There is too much to be lost by using new oak." We were reminded of something he had said early in our interview: "I would like to see this region become like Beaujolais or Bordeaux." Sylaidos, who allows himself to fantasize about the winery's possibilities, nevertheless has a firm grip on the reality. "I would like to make blends like Rhone wines with many varieties, but single varieties offer the best way to establish a base." During our visit, improvements were underway, just in time for the 2003 harvest. While the winery may have needed a little lift, Haggipavlu's wines--after only three years--are already well along. The wines: 2001 Mantinia This 100% Moschofilero has a gold hue with green rim. Its nose is complex, but elegant, with rose, citrus, tropical fruit--even a touch of green apple. A medium-bodied white, it shows great concentration and depth and firm, substantial texture. A long, spicy finish is capped by a pleasing citrus end taste. 2002 Mantinia According to winemaker Sakis Sylaidos, the difficult 2002 vintage provided a good lesson about which growers are good vineyardists. Production was considerably lower that year (7,000 bottles--down from the previous year's 30,00). This vintage had a gold/yellow hue, lighter aromas with more distinct rose and sweet honeysuckle. Light to medium-bodied, it was more feminine than the 2001, but not without the firm texture and mineral feel that clearly defines the Haggipavlu philosophy of Moschofilero. 2000 Nemea This 100% Agiorgitiko has an encouraging dark, plummy hue. Its nose displays dark fruit and a touch of garrigue. Its palate has flavors of blackberry as well as coffee. On the whole soft, a little spicy tannin adds a some black pepper. A well-balanced, medium-bodied wine, mono-varietal with the complexity of a Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Some minor, but judicious, new oak contact contributes to its success. 2001 Nemea A dark garnet color, this Agiorgitiko has a nose of cherry and dark fruit. Medium-bodied, it has more acidity than the previous vintage. This acidity combines with full fruit to provide a stronger attack. Tannins are less pronounced than in the 2000, and the absence of any oak flavor makes it a cleaner, fresher drink. 2001 Cabernet Sauvignon This fairly full-bodied Cab undergoes longer barrel aging (1 1/2 years) than Haggipavlu's Nemea. Perhaps this explains its sweet aroma. Fruit is subdued, but still in good concentration, balanced by prickly tannins and tobacco. An exceptionally international version that supports the notion of Pylos as a legitimate region for Cabernet production and confirms Haggipavlu's membership in the elite group of Greek producers who can create an exportable product from the variety. |
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Mantinia 