 |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Dimitris Hatzimichalis
By the mid-1980s, Hatzimichalis had become a household name in Greece and created a prestige label among the Greek Diaspora in England, America and Australia. Commanding, for the era, premium prices, his wines nevertheless found wide acceptance. Proving the existence of demand for upscale products and initiating the trend in earnest, Hatzimichalis was the first to truly break the hold of the four or five large companies that previously had held the market in a tight grip. To say that his is not necessarily a Cinderella story does nothing to diminish this achievement, for it would have taken exemplary business acumen and marketing instincts to accomplish what he did. Before venturing into wine, Hatzimichalis was already a successful importer of electronics and other products. During the early years, as he awaited the maturation of his initial nine hectares of vines, he financed the operation by housing a turkey farm on the property. The turkeys moved on long ago, but one still remains on the company logo. Following a long run at the pinnacle of a market segment of his own making, competition began streaming in. Still, the new upscale market continued to grow (as has the winery) and loyalty to the brand has remained sufficiently strong that Hatzimichalis today sells a million bottles annually, still no small potatoes by Greek standards. Hatzimichalis' wines have taken some heat over the years, literally and figuratively. It is sometimes said that the site in Atalante, not far not far north from Athens, was chosen more for its romantic association with its ancient wine traditions than for its modern potential. While it is true that Hatzimichalis has a profound interest in things oeno-archaeological, and this may have been a consideration, the strategic location of the vineyard vis a vis distribution is slightly more striking. The issue whether the microclimate is too hot to produce the styles to which the winery aspires, is at the core of some criticism, the most vocal coming from the Greek wine writer Nico Manessis. "Hatzimichalis," he writes in The Illustrated Greek Wine Book (2000), "stresses the ancient history of Atalanti (a region in which no other vintner has dared invest) but its limited potential is plain. The climate leaves heat imprints on wines that invariably lack polish." Neither the criticism nor the controversy, as Manessis himself admits, has done much to diminish the popularity of the wines. They were almost universally better than we had been led to expect by both Manessis and our industry contacts in Greece. Perhaps this kind of criticism has affected some changes. In any case, we felt confidant of our perspective during our fifth straight week of tasting wines in Greece. The winery, it should be said, produces a substantial range of products whose quality and price can be expected to vary anyway. More importantly, as the first winemaker in his class to have widespread exposure, Hatzimichalis may well have influenced the tastes of Greek consumers. If, at the end of the day, these consumers employ their own standard—including a preference for wines that display some "heat imprint"—is it fair to impose too harshly a foreign standard on a country already torn between the sometimes opposing forces of product differentiation and market adaptation? To the American mind, Hatzimichalis' extraordinarily large portfolio (about eighteen labels), more than anything, would suffice to explain any perceived shortcomings in individual wines: there are larger companies in Greece offering fewer products. As an outsider, is hard to make judgments on the microclimate knowing that, with so much on the table, some focus is bound to be sacrificed somewhere. In the end, Hatzimichalis' obvious passion for what he does suggests that, if there is a need and a way to move his products beyond the range of this kind of criticism, measures will be taken. As they stand, we found good value and good quality throughout the line. More importantly, a few shining stars prove that Hatzimichalis is still a leader. Few are the portfolios—in Greece as elsewhere— which don't require some picking and choosing. The prodigious output of the company is supplied by 130 hectares of estate vineyards supplemented with additional purchases of grapes and wine from local and regional sources. White varieties consist of Robola, Asyrtiko, Roditis, Savatiano, Athiri, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. Red varieties include Xynomavro, Limnio, Cabernet, Merlot, Syrah, Grenache and Carignane. We attended two tastings, the first hosted at the winery by the thoughtful, well-spoken Davis-educated oenologist Yiannis Flerianos. The second was held at the company's Athens sales headquarters by the company's accommodating marketing head John Bairaktaris, a man whose spectacular sense of humor must be partly responsible for the success of the company's wines. The wines: Domaine white 2000 This wine, produced from a "who's who" of Greek white cultivars, is a complex, but harmonious blend that buttresses the argument that oak is simply not a necessity in the vinification of Greece's best white varieties. The clean flavors of this blend of Robola, Asyrtiko, Roditis and Savatiano round show the real advantages of stainless steel. Intensely aromatic, moderately fruity and well-supported by greenish acidity, it is a complex and lively drink. Chardonnay 2000 Despite the many warnings in effect concerning orphaned oak flavors in these wines, this Chardonnay shows admirable restraint. A sweet, honey aroma leads to fruit, oak and acidity in pleasant harmony. The nice integration of oak is achieved by blending the oaked with the unoaked. The seeming predominance of the stainless steel fermented juice shows wisdom. Ambelon 2000 This wine is sourced from grapes planted at the estate's Opountia Locris vineyards. Alcohol, body and acidity are noticeably lower than in the limited production Robola. It is, however, a fitting alternative, a truly Mediterranean summer wine, super-soft, round and fruity with a charismatic green apple and pear palate. Kapnias Chardonnay 2000 The ability to age, apparently, is the goal behind this Chardonnay. This in itself is probably not the greatest of goals. The wine displays more body than fruit, more acidity than butter. The presence of oak, at least, is less conspicuous than it could easily have been. The real test, of course, will come after some bottle age. Though effort was in earnest and results in a good drinkable wine, we were more enchanted with the previous version.
The Robola for this wine comes from select vineyards and is well preserved on the palate. It is full-bodied and ripe, but its fruitiness is balanced by considerable acidity. According to Yiannis Flerianos, "I put Robola between Moschofilero and Chardonnay. It has some nice aromas and good body. We aim to achieve maximum ripeness in this wine, but to strike a balance between ripeness and too much alcohol." It's floral profile combines with a refreshing acidity that somewhat undermines the overly general parched-earth characterization of Hatzimichalis' wines. On the second go we noticed it had a creamy mouth feel we had missed the first time. This realization added to our positive impression of the wine. Sauvignon Blanc 2000 We found this Sauvignon Blanc vastly different from other Greek versions. It has some of the clean, tropical flavors we have come to associate with New Zealand. Soft in the middle, hard on the end, it captures the feel that is so popular now in America—a considerable achievement. Sauvignon Blanc Oak Barrique 2000 Although the unnecessary or heavy-handed use of oak in modern Greek winemaking is a recurring theme both in the Western wine media and on this web site, there are occasional surprises. Such is the case here. The presence of oak in this wine is ubiquitous, in effect, though rather than in overt flavor. While it is true that the its nose owes all its best attributes–vanilla, toffee, stewed fruit–to the barrel, we found no off flavors, no bitterness that is not nutty or sometimes characteristic of the variety and fruit and acidity in balance. We were all the more surprised having read a devastating review of the 1998. Cuvee Maison 1999 There may be no softer landing for the Greek wine neophyte than this, a blend dominated by 60% Xynomavro with Cabernet, Merlot and the intense Limnio. At once familiar, but distinctly Greek in flavor, it is a complex wine at every phase. With a spicy, woodsy nose, mature fruit and healthy tannins, there is a lot going on in the glass and on the palate. The wine has a fruity, acidic finish reminiscent, in a way, of young Burgundy. Merlot 1999 This was the one Hatzimichalis wine we found in distress. Diagnosis: overdose of oak. In deference to Nicos Manessis, it may have suffered from heat first. Because the wine spent ten months in new oak, we will probably never know. Beneath it all, there were good things going on. Firstly, it has a wonderful smoky nose. Secondly, the tannin profile was right on. Thirdly, it displayed the kind of mature fruit that has sustained the variety's respectability in places like California. Lastly, it had real body. In fairness, its disjointedness could have as simple a cause as a mediocre vintage. Syrah 1999 This limited production Syrah has some curious features. Uncharacteristically subtle, it still has some nice herbal aromas, dark cherry fruit and an almost sweet aroma. Perhaps due to the vintage, for heat is not so great an enemy of Syrah, it lacks a little depth if anything. For all its subtle charms, it is light-bodied for Syrah, less ripe than the styles currently fashionable in the New World. Cabernet Sauvignon 1999 This is one of several wines we tasted that suggested that a more subtle oak policy may be in place. This is a soft wine, best for consuming in its youth. While its body is not striking, it has a sweet nose, round middle and quiet finish. It displays none of the cedar and eucalyptus associated with many of the hot, earthy Cabernets of Southern Greece. This is easy-drinking wine, a fact that may explain its wide popularity in Greece. Kapnias Cabernet 1998 This wine spent two years in oak. We found sophistication in it, deep color, rich nose, great structure. One of a handful of examples of superior Greek Cabernet.
Hatzimichalis' long tradition with Cabernet undoubtedly accounts for his consistent success with the variety. To qualify for Cava (or Kava) status the wine must age for three years total, in this case two years in oak and two years in bottle. The flavor suggests old oak. The nose is intense, the palate is filled with concentrated, toasty fruit. Acidity is palpable, but in balance, good tannin is in abundance. A truly well-structured and competitive Cabernet. Naousa 1998 On the one hand it seems altogether unlikely that Hatzimichalis would market a competitive appellation Naousa. On the other hand, the wine, by law, was produced there. So there you have it. This Xynómavro spent a year in barrel and year in bottle before its release. A complex, thistle nose implied none of the round fruit that followed on the palate–a pleasant surprise. With plenty of depth, more red cherry than we can remember finding in a Naousa, this is an extraordinarily accessible introduction to the variety. The overall strong showing of the whites probably reflect the strength of the 2000 vintage. As reds from that year emerge from barrel, more universal strength will likely be reflected. Hatzimichalis, obviously, is on the short list of Greek producers who have facility with Cabernet, no matter the vintage. Construction is well underway on a new visitor center at the winery that will reflect Hatzimichalis' interest in wine history. In addition to the usual wine-touristic features, there will be a legitimate museum whose exhibits were developed by an archaeologist. During our visit, a photo documentary about traditional barrel-making and an actual reconstruction of a traditional Cretan cooperage were already on display. Hatzimichalis has also expressed his devotion to the history of winemaking by underwriting and publishing some important books on the subject, including one on the theme of wine motifs in ancient coins that we found being used in Boston as a reference for a thesis by a student of an acquaintance who is a wine educator here. Hatzimichalis remains an important figure in the Greek wine industry. Intelligent, studied and a brilliant business mind, his passion for wine and commerce can be expected to keep him in the spotlight as the new, more complex fabric of Greek wine continues to develop. |
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Xanthos
Rose
Erythros
