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Domain Kosta Lazaridi |
| News: March 20, 2003 February 25, 2003 |
From the outset, the Lazaridis concept embraced the notion that Western varieties were essential to changing foreign perceptions about Greek winemaking. It also met the needs of a domestic market thirsting for a more cosmopolitan flavors in their wines. An initial orientation towards Bordeaux varieties, however, was based on more than just market analysis: the microclimate, cooler and more continental than most of Greece, is well-suited to the production of French cultivars. There was also faith that native varieties had an important role to play, too. Vineyard area now exceeds 110 hectares. Plantings include Cabernet, Merlot, Limnió, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, Viognier and Asyrtiko. Organic cultivation plays an increasingly important role in product development. In keeping with the style on which the original, fairly hip reputation of the winery was built, the wines do not shy away from the display of fruit. Framing lots of fruit in a dignified manner has always been a hallmark. The wines: Amethystos White 2000 This blend of 70% Sauvignon Blanc with 15% Semillon and 15% Asyrtiko is slightly green at first, also in color. There are no tropical leanings here, with balance from the Semillon, but no invasive syrup. This wine has plenty of body and structure, more skin extract than overt fruit, a long finish. It is a distinct and modern wine, peachy and aromatic. Amethystos Fumé 2000 This, the official white wine at the presidential mansion in Athens, is on its lies for about four months. A good dose of fruit on the nose is accompanied by some oak. Some oak is also present on the palate, though fresh fruit and a tincture of almond prevail. The finish is strong and lively, accompanied also by a continuation of oak feel. Chateau Julia Chardonnay 2000 Following its debut, this wine had an immediate effect in export markets. Chardonnay that meets international standards is still hard to come by in Greece. The wine still excels. Round fruit is well-framed by acidity. Although the company literature writes of pineapple and banana flavors, our opinions leaned more towards pear (especially on the nose), although the overt fruitiness probably begs more complex associations than we ourselves made. If this is some measure of success, noone would suspect this Chardonnay comes from Greece. Chardonnay Dryos (Oaked) 2000 This is the most intense of the Lazaridi whites. An explosive nose is followed by a mild attack of residual sugar on the tongue. Fermented and aged on its lies in oak, fruit powers the fore, acidity the aft. In this wine the fruit is more tropical, oak present in aroma as vanilla, in the mouth as oil. It is a rich powerhouse of a wine, suitable with rich food.
This variety, full-bodied, acidic and sparse in its native Aegean habitat, achieves a unique softness at the hands of Lazaridis. The nose is rich with herbs. We found lush tropical fruit in abundance and a trailing acidity that added backbone to the ripe, grapy feel that persists in the mouth. It was nice to see the balance tipped so much in favor of the soft side of the grape. Chateau Julia Semillon 2000 After tasting California attempts at Semillon, we had given up the on it as mono-varietal. It always seemed best left in the hands of its Bordeaux masters, best employed as ameliorateur. Imagine our surprise when we discovered that Lazaridi had proven to have a deft hand in its solo vinification. With full body and residual sugar minimized, the cloying nature of Semillon is nowhere apparent in this wine. There is some intense vanilla on the nose, dried fruit on the palate, and enough acidity to carry the finish. A real eye-opener.
Viognier has not yet found its ideal expression in Greece. This one comes close. The varietal expression is good, aided in part by some pleasant residual sugar, ripe flavors and good acidity. The wine, however, is fermented in oak. The positive (complexity) is outweighed by the negative (overwhelming oakiness). It would seem that practicable adjustments to the formula could create a remarkable version. Amethystos Rosé 2000 This 100% Cabernet shows its true colors: blue. It also displays raspberries in color and on the nose. The fruit is remarkably well preserved, so much so that the relatively low sugar levels are surprising. Neither too sweet, nor too acidic, this a soft, fresh and lively rosé, all packed into one.
This is a blend of Cabernet, Merlot and the ancient Limnió. Inordinately soft, with noticeable residual sugar. There are vegetative flavors that are somewhat typical of Greek Cabernet grown in warmer regions. Concentration is good, the fruit somewhat caramelized, with a slightly leathery mouth feel. 12 months in oak may have compromised some of the fruit, which is lacking by New World standards for similar wines. Still, this is a wine notable for its complexity and ambitious ideals. Chateau Julia Merlot 1999 Made from organic grapes, this wine has intense vegetal characteristics, including much eucalyptus. It is intense, concentrated, leathery, chocolaty and full-bodied, New World in sort of a South African sense. A challenging wine we would like to try after another year in bottle.
We though this 100% Cabernet the best of the Lazaridi reds. The fruit is intact, strong and round. It has an herbaceous nose with hints of wild mushroom. After 18 months in new barrels, few overt indications of unincorporated oak remain. The wine ages for 2 years in bottle and had certainly resolved to an elegant balance of flavors. The winery also is home to a state-of-the-art distillery where quality flavored and unflavored apóstagma (grappas) are produced. The facility is in the midst of a major expansion. Already it is one of Greece's most architecturally advanced and visitor-oriented. There is an elegant tasting room built around a time capsule of 400 bottles of early red wine production. A function room provides space for many kinds of events and includes a professional kitchen. Products can be purchased on the premises. Art is everywhere. Today, Ktima Kosta Lazaridi is at a crossroads. Challenged in the market on the one side by a wave of
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