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Nicos Lazaridis (Chateau Lazaridi)
| News: February 25, 2003 |
The team has stuck to its original goals; cultivating noble varieties in Drama's continental microclimate and blending them, when appropriate, with suitable indigenous cultivars. This philosophy was rooted in a desire to produce wines that could compete in the international arena while pushing the envelope of innovation in Greece's increasingly sophisticated domestic market.
The company's 125 acres of vines in the villages of Agora, Adriani and Pigadia are supplemented by 25 acres under contract with local growers. Plantings of red grapes consist of Cabernet, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and the ancient, indigenous Limnio. White varieties consist of Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, Ugni Blanc and the indigenous Roditis. The local soil features both loam and limestone. That, in combination with a warm growing season, yields distinctive, ripe fruit. According to Tsalkos, "what differentiates us from other local producers is our slow approach. We have never been in a hurry to release our wines. Long barrel aging is often the key to framing their strong fruit." When asked about the lack of new oak flavors in his wines Tsalkos replied, "we fear the overuse of new oak. We use it mainly for our wines that receive long aging–five years. Otherwise we are going after age–not extraction." The winery's flagship product, the Chateau red is a case in point. The classic blend of Cabernet, Cabernet franc and Merlot is aged for 18 months in second-use barrels only. Less barrel age would result in cloying fruit. New oak would confuse its already wide flavor spectrum. In all the wines we tasted, oak was clearly never employed for its own sake.
We tasted the wines with Talkos and assistant Babis Lambrou in the conference room overlooking the winery's front lawn and the village of Agora. Here is what we found: Chateau Lazaridi Red 2000 This blend of Cabernet, Cabernet Franc and Merlot displays the most tasteful use of oak. Second year barrels enable the wine to age with a minimum of influence from the wood itself. Good thing. It is fruity to start, but pleasantly enriched in barrel. To best describe this effect one might say that Drama's terroir makes it Greece's equivalent to California's Alexander Valley. Dark crimson, with fruit and spice on the nose, it leads with just a hint of residual sugar, or perhaps dry extract, before revealing a full palate with dark fruit, mild spice and medium acidity.
This another Chateau Lazaridi red that invites comparisons to California wine. A damson red with a smoky nose, its fruit is concentrated and plummy, but without the high alcoholic degree associated with similarly intense California Merlot. Its packed, dried red fruit continues through a striking, long finish notable for clean acidity that balances the richness of its mid-palate. Makedon Red 2000 Makedon is one of the labels of Chateau Lazaridi's Kavala winery. The grapes for this line are grown on the foothills of Pangaiou mountain, where there is a temperate ocean influence and a longer growing season than in Drama. This wine is a blend of Cabernet, Merlot and Limnio. The influence of Limnio is measured, apparent mainly in some dried fruit aromas and flavors. The color of the wine is classic Cabernet, red with purple edges. A light wine with mature palate, it features one of our favorite combinations; a smoky nose and smooth, even body. On the one hand its finish is not as sturdy as in the reds from Drama, on the other hand its acidity, though at similar levels, is a more pronounced end-taste. Lion d'Or Red 2000 This 100% Cabernet from Kavala leans more towards the French than other Lazaridi reds we tasted, a reminder, perhaps, of Tsalkos' experience in St. Emillion. Unlike other reds we tried, this is not brimming with personality. Rather, it is a staid, true-to-type dry Cabernet with purple hues and dark cherry aromas. It has medium body, a solid backbone and good balance throughout.
This wine marries two classic Aegean varieties; the white Monemvasia and the red Mandilaria. The result could be neither more interesting nor more distinctive. The Mandilaria gives a deep plummy color. the varieties together bringing a complex nose of allspice and nutmeg. The wine is off-dry with a cider-like flavor, lots of skin extraction but soft tannins. Paraportiano Rosé 2000 Another blend of the white Monemvasia and red Mandilaria, this Mykonos wine has an intense orange hue and mild, pleasing fruity nose. According to Tsalkos, the aim is to produce a typical Bordeaux style rosé. Though the color may be light, the wine displays deep extraction of skin flavor to accompany dried fruit. Of light to medium body, the wine is bone dry, has superb structure, its refreshing acidity augmented at the finish by slight CO2. At once sophisticated and subtle. Chateau Lazaridi White 2001 This wine blends Sauvignon Blanc with Semillon and Ugni Blanc. Pale gold in color with brilliant fresh fruit nose. Palate is also of fresh fruit, soft and round, but with notable acidity and full mouthfeel. The wine has a quiet mineral backbone and a long, elegant, tart finish. With a flourish of CO2 on the tongue and lemon end-taste, there is something for just about everyone in this wine. A classic white fermentation without bells and whistles in which all the best features of the component varieties have been allowed to shine. Winemaking at its best, from Greece or anywhere else.
This wine is from the third year of Lazaridi's Ugni Blanc production. Its success in 2002 is ample proof of its ability not only to age, but undoubtedly to improve with age. The use of barrels, a mix of French and American oak for 6 months, is expert. Deep yellow in color with aromas of stewed fruit, this wine is big, earthy, round and solid while only 12% alcohol—pure nectar from start to finish. Our hosts wisely chose to serve it in brandy snifters, a perfect way to appreciate the fine harmony it had achieved after nearly 6 years in bottle. All things considered, this is the most unique and well-crafted white wine we've tasted in Greece; a masterpiece. Trebbiano 2000 This barrel fermented Ugni Blanc is another showcase for both the terroir of Drama and the winemaking skills of its creators. Its barrel fermentation in second-use American and French oak is inspired. Its color is pale yellow with gris rim. Its nose is bold for the variety, fruit intermingled with bread. Down-to-earth fruit on the palate and good acidity combine for a full mouth feel. A long finish resolves to slightly nutty end taste. A true Mediterranean white showing great depth. Magic Mountain 2000 We had the opportunity to try this 100% Sauvignon Blanc from Kavala at Zaferano restaurant in Athens in the summer of 2001. It is fermented in new French barrels and remains on its less for 6 months. It was served chilled and reluctant at first to part with any distinct aromas. On the pale side of yellow, it exhibited light fruit laced with citrus, its acidity present, but not dominating. As it reached temperature on that hot summer evening it eventually sprang to life. Its secondary aromas were rich in flowers and green fruit. A more round mid-palate emerged, setting off, rather than overwhelming, its reliable acidity. Makedon White 2001 From Lazaridi's Kavala vineyards and winery, this wine is a blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Roditis and Asyrtiko. Its color is yellow with green tints. Aromas of pear dominate a strong nose. Even bodied, with pear and citrus on the palate, very good acidity and full extraction imply more body than the wine's alcoholic degree of 11.5% would suggest. Notable for its clean flavors, long finish and soft aftertaste. A pleasant combination of depth and structure. Lion d'Or White 2001 A subtle hand was at work in the creation of this 100% Chardonnay from Kavala. Everything about this wine is quiet, understated. Its light yellow color is the only indication that this wine spent any time in oak. In fact it had barrel contact for three short months. It has a pleasant citrus nose, its solid acidity framing extremely soft fruit. A good, slightly tart finish. Paraportiano White 2001 This wine is produced at Lazaridi's Mykonos winery. Yields there are naturally low, in this case 30-40 kg per hectare. A blend of Athiri and Asyrtiko, it has straw color and a medium nose of fruit and dried flowers. Its solid acidity is a counterpoint to its exceedingly soft fruit, an extraordinarily creamy mouth feel tying theses elements together. It is a well-balanced wine with a lasting, gentle finish. The winery also produces a rosé under the Chateau label made from 100% Cabernet; an intriguing dessert wine (5 gr/lt), Melissourgos, made from Merlot; a Retsina from Roditis, Romia; a red Mayiko Vouno (Magic Mountain) from Cabernet, Merlot and Cab Franc; a Muscat of Alexandria dessert wine, Moushka; and a late harvest version of the Trebbiano. We hope to sample these on a future visit. |
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Magic
Mountain red
Paraportiano
Rosé
Trebbiano
Late Vintage
Moushka
