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Vangelis Lidakis
The Archanes region is a potential powerhouse of consequential terroir-driven red wine. That it has not earned a competitive position against better-known Greek appellations can be laid in part to bad yield habits resulting from strong tourism and a history of well-rewarded bulk wine production. Phylloxera, which decimated many of the region's best old vines during the 1980s, did not help.
Vangelis Lidakis is a mechanical engineer by profession but had winemakers on both sides of the gene pool. In 1993, tired of the bureaucracy that was an unavoidable component of his job, he, along with two good friends, set out to defy the unavoidable and test the waters as wine producers. He was, he says, "practically born in a patatiri [crushing floor]. The smell of wine was in my nose from the first day." He had been making wine for himself since he was twenty years old, but now he caught the bug in a serious way. Stepping back to eye the region with an affectionate but objective eye, it became clear that tradition alone was not the answer to revealing the true potential of the region's grapes. According to Lidakis, "the question became how do we marry science and tradition?" Lidakis called upon an old friend, an oenologist from Archanes working in Switzerland, to aid in educating the partners. He also set about studying any material that would useful in developing a program in which a fresh approach could be applied to extracting the best combination of features from grapes and soil. Lidakis became hooked. His partners did not. He still takes the occasional engineering job. In keeping with his character, though, his focus is now on renovating and preserving traditional buildings in Archanes. On his own since 1997, Lidakis quickly learned that the problem of Archanes begins in the vineyard. Even as he purchased grapes from select vineyards for his appellation Archanes wine, he planted his own vines and undertook to farm them organically. His technical research led him to a perhaps unsurprising conclusion: low yields, limited production and minimal intervention during winemaking create blends that show the depth of Kotsifali's light fruit as well as unadulterated terroir. In the process of informing himself, Lidakis has created a new sensibility for the region: the option of artisanal production. His are not easy wines. If anything, their honest varietal expression reveals components of the grapes that are themselves challenging: organic, earthy fruit and masculine structure secreted behind deceivingly light color. The trick will be producing a wine that can age sufficiently to allow the softening of tannin and development of texture of which Kotsifali and Mandilaria are truly capable.
Like any self-starter Lidakis relies heavily on experimentation. "I produce about ten experimental batches each year." A key focus has been on developing a white wine for his portfolio. In a region dominated by red grapes, there has been no recent model from which to draw lessons. One of his first attempts is a promising blend of Plyto, Thrapsathiri and Muscat. "Still," says Lidakis. "it is a work in progress. I continue searching for just the right mix." A sweet Muscat, a real rarity in Crete, appears to be in the works. Lidakis sees his life as much improved since he began winemaking. "I am a grapegrower and a winemaker now. I spend my days in the vineyards. There is constant contact with nature." This well-expressed appreciation of nature is what is at the foundation of the new road he has paved for Archanes wines. Lidakis wines: 2001 Belena White Lidakis' blend of Plyto, Thrapsathiri and Muscat is one of the year's most fascinating wines. Its clear, light color and strong nose of cinnamon and clove are unique. Its fruit is subtle and complex and quietly fills a palate framed by pleasant acidity and lime notes. A long finish is dominated by minerals and spices. 2001 Belena Red This blend of 80% Kotsifali and 20% Mandilaria shows exceptional color extraction; dark cherry red with orange tints. A fresh, fruity nose is layered contrastingly with earthy, olive scents. Its palate is an interesting combination of clean pomegranate, and dried fruit. Kotsifali's tart dried cherry hangs long on the finish. 1997 Archanes This blend of 75% Kotsifali and 25% Mandilaria shows Kotsifali's fascinating orange tendencies, even in its deep, red color. Dried fruit dominates the nose and palate, high acidity gives the wine a nervous edge. Mild oxidization adds complexity. This wine spans the ages. 1999 Kotsifali/Cabernet Kotsifali gets down to business in this marriage with Cabernet, producing a color of fine Burgundy The Cabernet in this blend mitigates Kotsifali's youthful restlessness. Clean to a fault and layered with light tannin, this is a new direction in which two very confident varieties overlap their fruit to create a wine notable for its firm structure more so than for its expression of Cretan flavors. |
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