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George Manolesakis and Son
| News: September 1, 2002 |
The combination of vines he cultivates would seem pretty familiar to most growers in California. His vineyards include plantings of Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, Ugni Blanc, Cabernet, Merlot and Syrah. No odd-sounding names here–but no Zinfandel either. In addition, Manolesakis has contracts with local growers for the indigenous Roditis variety.
Like any winemaker in his first years, Manolesakis approaches each vintage with increasing confidence. Enthusiastic and likable, he is fortunate to have found an energetic and compatible oenologist, Angeliki Apostolaki, whose good nature belies a serious commitment to developing the elegant side of Drama's fruity terroir. With the company's whites well on the way to wide-scale acceptance, the focus now is on making sure its young reds fulfill the requirement of being drinkable early without being too ripe or lacking in structure. Low yields, according to the pair, account for their success so far, providing them a foundation of real quality as the starting point of each vinification. Manolesakis is fond of pointing out that the name of his company is 'Manolesakis and Son'. His son Stavros, himself a positive, energetic character, heads sales for the fledgling operation. Like many of peers, Manolesakis' passion for winemaking goes hand in hand with the desire to provide for his family and its future generations. The hearty reception so far of the wines in the Greek market speaks well of the efforts of both father and son and is an auspicious beginning for a small venture in such a competitive market. Manolesakis plans to build a new winery near his present facility in order to increase capacity and to enable the company to benefit from the region's burgeoning trend in wine tourism. In a productive year, Manolesakis estimates, his annual output could achieve close to 150,000 bottles. American exports are about to get underway. The wines:
This simple, steel-fermented Chardonnay has a light hay color and an intriguing combination of honey and grass aromas. Fruit and acidity are in nice balance. Chardonnay Fumé 2001 This wine begins its fermentation in steel, but is quickly transferred to barrel. Folowing malolactic fermentation it remains in oak for five additional months. Manolesakis is justifiably proud of this wine. Its color shows little sign of oak, its aromas feature honey and vanilla. Its palate of subtle peach and apricot is augmented by solid acidity. It has a long finish in which oak plays a quiet role. Genima Psichis White 2001 This blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Semillon has light green tints and a complex fleshy aroma, even when quite cold. Although only 12% alcohol, it is quite full on the palate, with plenty of round fruit, nectarine and some green apple. It has clean, long finish sustained by steely acidity. It is a wine of great balance. Roditis/Sauvignon Blanc 2001 This wine is the result of what was clearly a carefully devised strategy involving cold-start fermentation on lees in stainless steel. It has a unique pale silver in its yello color and light honey aroma. It has quiet strength, even quieter fruit, a slight nuttiness and some citrus end taste. The wine is particularly refreshing, though somewhat at the expense of great depth. Genima Psichis Rosé 2001 This super-elegant Cabernet rosé has full body, a clean, long finish and citrusy aftertaste. A sophisticated but still fruit-impacted dry rosé. Genima Psichi Red 2000 This blend of Cabernet, Merlot and Syrah spent 6 months new oak barrels. It has a dark, plum color and medium ripe nose. With body leaning towards full, its rich, somewhat elegant fruit is well-framed. Its bright, bold flavors reminded us a little of some Australian Cabernet/Shiraz blends. Cabernet 2000 This dark red Cabernet, rich in berry aroma, displays intense and surprisingly mature fruit on the palate. Acidity contributes its fullness, tannins give it a masculine edge. Six months in oak seems just right, a little more to time in bottle would help meld its nice individual components. Merlot 2000 Low yields of 40 kg/hectare are not unusual in his vineyards, according to Manolesakis. Such was the case in 2000. The resulting wine is quite dark and rich, brimming with fruit at the attack, laced with tannin at the finish. The most conspicuously youthful of his red wines, it also possesses the most personality. |
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Merlot
