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Mercouri Estate
Located in the western Peloponessos near Pyrgos, Mercouri occupies a plateau on the Ichthis peninsula close by the village of Korakohori. In addition to vineyards and olive groves, the estate has an Italianate residence, stone buildings that house the winery, offices and visitor center, and lush gardens inhabited by a variety of flora and fauna. A peacock scurried past just as we parked our car, an auspicious and lasting first impression. Another building houses a collection of antique implements and artifacts, a window into the estates largely self-sufficient past. Amid the lush gardens is a beautiful, ivy-covered stone chapel. Amphorae still littering the small bay behind the house attest to a tradition of wine commerce in the region during ancient times. Concerts and other events make use of the estate's beautiful grounds and buildings making it a popular cultural destination. In a region whose tourism is dominated by the nearby excavations of the ancient Olympiad, it is the most visible wine port of call. The estate was founded by Theodore Mercouri, a wealthy cotton merchant from Alexandria, Egypt, in 1860. While olive oil and wine grapes dominate the estate's present 23 acres, currants, a historical mainstay of Peloponesian agriculture, have also played an important role in the farm's production. In 1870 Mercouri planted Refosco cuttings from Italy. Soon thereafter, wine headed for Trieste began leaving from a stone quay at the end of the peninsula for distribution in Europe. In time Refosco came to be referred to in the region simply as "Mercouri". Leonidas Mercouri, son of the founder, established the first modern winery there in the 1930s. The operation continued until 1955. The present owners, Vasilis and Christos Kanellakopoulos, the fourth generation of the family, began a serious effort to revive winemaking on the estate in 1989. Plantings are dominated by Refosco and Mavrodafni, the ingredients of the flagship wine called "Domaine Mercouri." Mercouri's flagship white, Foloi, is produced from Roditis grapes grown at 450-650 meter elevation on nearby Mount Foloi. Extensive experimental plantings in the estate's vineyards include the red varieties; Avgoustiatis, Mourvedre, Merlot, Syrah, Cabernet, Cabernet Franc, Sangiovese and Grenache and the white varieties; Malvasia Aromatica, Ribolla Gialla, Sauvignon Blanc, Tourkopoula and Viognier. Some of these varieties have already found their way into a new line of wines. According to Vassilis Kanellakopoulos, "all our new wines are blends, partly because quantities are too low to vinify them alone. When Grenache and Sangiovese were not working out as solo varietals, we quickly discovered better uses for them." Oak is still a matter of ongoing experimentation. According to Dimitris Agelinas, Mercouri's young, but talented, oenologist, "the estate has always favored high alcohol in its wines. In the case of Refosco, this has not always resulted in the best tannins. Now we strive to round out the wines, make them less masculine. Temperature adjustments, longer fermentation, new yeasts and malolactic fermentation all play a role." The Wines Domaine Mercouri (Ktima Merkouri) 1998 The winery's goal of producing a more round version of this wine has clearly been achieved. This deep-colored red has a fully developed bouquet featuring dark dried fruit aromas we assume emanate in good part from the Mavrodafni. This fruit carries to the palate and is balanced by good acidity. Sturdy alcohol makes for full body, but without overt alcohol flavor or bitterness. Long finish with sweet chocolate notes. Domaine Mercouri 1999 We found the 1999 richer than the 1998, its color deep, almost inky. In flavor there is tremendous consistency between the two vintages. The 1999, however, has greater depth and has some character, for lack of a better comparison, reminscent of fine brandy. Domaine Mercouri 2000 The still-early 2000 bodes well for a banner year. It has a rich, damson color, rustic nose with earthy, wine cellar aromas and light tar. It is extraordinarly soft on the palate with good alcohol (13%), acidity in balance and prickly tannins at the finish. The best features of this wine come slowly to the palate, a characteristic likely to resolve during its continued aging in bottle. It was, as promised, a very good year.
This wine is a blend of Augoustiatis and Mourvedre. Avgoustiatis is an Ionian grape only recently receiving attention from serious producers. This combination produces a fairly full-bodied wine of deep color with coffee at the rim. The nose is a complex amalgam of dark fruit and smoke with a little pumpkin pie spice. Mature, round fruit dominates a palate replete with leather and cocoa. Long, oily finish with prickly tannins. In its ten to twelve months in barrel this wine gets all the best results from oak and none of its drawbacks. Orion 2001 This one of several 2001 rosés with conspicuous red wine character. It is also, not surprisingly, the repository for much of the estate's Grenache. The addition of Sangiovese may account for its complex and decidedly serious nature. Its color is multifarious; peachy red with hints of purple and blue. It has more dark berry on the nose and palate than any rosé we remember. It displays full body and nervous acidity. It is a lively wine, yeasty and a good accompaniment for foods with which rosé is not always so appropriate a companion. We could imagine this with strong cheeses, foie gras, flavorful salads and certain pork and game dishes. Foloi 2001 According to our notes, the mountain vines for Foloi receive no irrigation. Perhaps this accounts for a certain softness that is somewhat atypical of high elevation Roditis. Its color is a slightly creamy yellow. It is a wine with strong aromas of quiet flowers and fruits; chamomile and melon, perhaps. With round, feminine fruit on the palate and quiet, elegant acidity, it has a long, clean finish and light aftertaste. It is a subtle, elegant summer wine.
The Foloi Fumé originates from the same Roditis vineyards as its unoaked version. This vintage consisted of 2,100 bottles, a tentative step forward and a chance to play further with various oak sources before jumping head long into production. The color is the same pale, creamy gold as the Foloi, but the nose shows the influence of the new oak barrels in which the wine has spent three short, but influential, months. Although undeniably fruity and floral on the nose, it also has yeasty, substantial aromas including bread and fresh butter. Soft, ripe pear dominates the palate. Acidity is subtle, performing a selfless role. It seems a little drier than the Foloi, though that may have something to do with oak. Like the best of Peloponesian Roditis it has a particularly creamy mouth feel that resolves to a more tart finish. According to the winemaker, the oak exerted a stronger than expected influence. It makes for an interesting and tasty wine. Kallisto 2001 This wine is an even blend of Tourkopoula and Ribolla Gialla. Light in color and with light aromas of canteloupe and citrus blossoms, this wine has citrus oil flavors throughout without overt acidity. It is an essentially light wine whose 12.3% alcohol is well concealed from the palate. Production is low and distribution is currently limited to a very few restaurants in Greece. Coma Berenices 2001 This low yield, 100% Viognier is considered by its makers still to be in its experimental phase. Its color is golden yellow throughout. Previous efforts were described as having a bready flavor. Its primary aromas are strong and earthy, like truffles or mushrooms. Secondary aromas which developed in the glass displayed a lot more fruit. The palate is dominated by peach, the aftertaste nutty. The wine showed more of its personality after some time in the glass suggesting it is at its best when not over-chilled.
Mercouri makes this limited production Mavrodafni/Korinthiaki blend for friends and good customers. We suspect it is received with great anticipation and delight. The grape component is sun dried. The wine is fortified, arriving at 18% alcohol: some kind of record, we're certain, for Mavrodafni. It is aged in oak for five years. Its flavor is intense beyond port. Perhaps brandied plums best describe its concentrated dark fruit and consuming strength. An unforgettable wine. |
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Hortes
