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Martine and Yiannikostas Metaxas
Educated in law and shipping in Athens, Thessaloniki and London, Yiannikostas abandoned a high-powered off-island career to return to Kefalonia in 1977. By the time he met Martine in 1982, he had already become a successful businessman in Argostoli. The couple were married in 1985. In the early 1990s, with children in tow, they made the decision to abandon their lucrative travel business in Argostoli and return to Yiannikostas' ancestral property in Mavrata in order to revive a family winemaking tradition that had begun in early 18th century.
This success finally realized a potential that had been explored in fits and starts by recent generations of the family. Yiannikostas' grandfather, also named Yiannikostas, a ship's captain, had retired from the sea in 1930 to pursue viniculture on the family's land. Following the advice of French, Italian and American winemakers, he began nearly a decade of experimentation. Unfortunately he passed away in 1939, just as World War II was beginning. The war was followed by Greece's own internal difficulties. Then in 1953, just as the rest of Greece was beginning its recovery from a decade of strife, a powerful earthquake struck Kefalonia. Like much of the island, the Metaxas house was reduced to rubble, the vineyards left in shambles.
The first vintage was bottled in December 1993 and was an immediate critical success. In 1996 the current 200 square meter winery was built near the house and consulting oenologist Effie Kalinikidou came on board. Today the winery produces approximately 55,000 bottles annually. The work is painstaking. The couple's hands-on approach means there is little respite at all during the year. The wine, for example, is still bottled by hand and family responsibilities compete with the daily and seasonal demands of running a successful winery. One of these demands is the time and energy required to manage an increasing volume of visitors during tourist season. In 1999 the winery hosted more than 8,000 people. The couple also plays an important role in the Kefalonian Wine Growers Association, an organization of wine producers committed to bolstering the increasingly high regard in which the island's appellation has come to be held.
The estate's own 3.5 hectares are planted with the same Zakynthino variety Giacomo Metaxas brought to the island 300 years ago. Until its debut in their Eleios, Zakynthino was just one in a long list of lesser-known Ionian varieties of unknown potential. Revealing its substantial character may yet be the Metaxas' most serious contribution to Greek viticulture. The addition of this, a wine displaying many noble attributes, has guaranteed their reputation as regional leaders in the Greek quest for international recognition. Metaxas wines: Robola de Cephalonie 2001 Its straw color and light, warm aroma belie the great depth of this wine. While this particular vintage does not display a striking level of acidity, its deep, round fruit is amply supported by minerals and framed by a superb long finish characterized by crisp, lemon aftertaste. It is an elegant wine with great personality, a food wine--above all a seafood accompaniment second to none. Eleios 2001 It is hard to avoid comparisons between this 100% Zakynthino and Alsatian wine. Although more fruity than spicy, even with a good chill its primary aromas are forceful and not without a hint of petrol. A medium yellow color, it is a concentrated amalgam of peachy, tropical and dried fruit. Its acidity is pronounced, its body full, its elements all strong, but in balance. This is a "sexy" wine, the kind that bridges the gap between Old World structure and New World power with enough variety, finesse and finish to appeal to any taste in white wine. |
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