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Avantis Winery (Mountrihas)
The Mountrihas family has owned their property in southern Evia since 1830. As far back as anyone can remember, grapes were grown there and wine was made from them. Only in 1990, however, did things take a serious turn. That year Nikos Mountrihas and his son Apostolos set about replanting the family's vineyards. At the time, Apostolos had just completed his degree in economics. Their goal was to establish a small winery capable of producing wines that would reinvigorate the island of Evia's ancient winemaking traditions. With tradition in mind, they named their venture 'Avantis', the ancient name for what is now Evia. In a region which gets little respect in Greece--not a single AOC appellation--they far exceeded expectations. With plenty of support from a strong family, Apostolos is the driving force behind the venture. We visited them at the estate on a Sunday, a day when the family typically gathers at the winery (which doubles as a weekend retreat). We arrived amidst much hustle and bustle as they prepared a small feast to which we, a grower and a distributor with family in tow, were all invited. Fani, Nikos' wife, the strong spiritual force behind this close-knit family, was firmly in control. Apostolos' wife, Alika, and brother, Spyros, who designs the winery's labels, were among the cheerful--and on this day--dutiful participants. "From strong roots grow strong trees", says the adage. And so it is with the Mountrihas family.
Cordoned rows of vines surround the winery. Although the Mountrihas' have acquired vineyards at Armadiotia in northern Evia and have contracts with a grower in Viotia, the estate's 3 stremmata (.3 hectares) is the still a source of Roditis, some Savatiano and, recently, Sauvignon Blanc. Armadiotia, at 450 meters is the source of the winery's strong Rhone varieties-- Syrah, Petite Syrah and Grenache. Though the estate, which is practically at sea level, provides no elevation for its white grapes, its wines in no way could be said to be lacking in structure. In fact, despite yields that are not exceptionally low, the estate's white wines show remarkable concentration, perhaps attributable in part to a terroir strongly influenced by its proximity to the ocean not quite visible from the property itself. Production can be safely described as artisanal--grapes are harvested by hand, loaded in small crates, destemmed then crushed in the winery's pneumatic press. Though cold-stabilized, no character seems lost in the process. Sauvignon Blanc receives 20 days cold fermentation, the one varietal white subject to this method. While the strong showing of the Mountrihas white wines is impressive, the red wines put them on the 'A list' of Greek red wine producers. As imported varieties go, Rhone cultivars--perhaps not surprisingly--seem generally to have taken better than all others to Greek growing conditions. In support of this, the Mountrihas Rosé, Syrah and Petite Syrah provide decisive evidence. Few Greek reds would so easily defy any attempt to define their region of origin, a fact which speaks to the uniquely broad range of the Greek vineyard. Apostolos has met one other prerequisite of serious winemaking, namely the ability to make good of a bad vintage. Two of the wines we tasted, the 2001 Syrah and 2002 Rosé were rescued by a combination of creativity and sheer determination. His combination of discipline, intelligence and will can be expected to stand the Mountrihas name in good stead for many vintages to come. Mountrihas wines: 2002 Avantis Estate White This 100% Roditis has a straw yellow color and ripe aromas of peach and melon. Medium-bodied, its palate combines stone and white fruit flavors with a hint of tart, delicate acidity. Its finish, though hampered a bit by the effects of the vintage's relentless rains, is nevertheless good, aided by a pleasant, peach pit end taste. 2002 Avantis Drios Fermentation of this 100% Roditis begins in stainless steel and is completed in medium toast new French oak. It has a light yellow color and a nose of ripe fruit, spice and cake. It is light to medium in body, rich in fruit. The remarkably competent, invisible use of barrels ("we only use barrels to add aroma and character") results in a creamy texture and bread flavors at the end of its long finish. 2002 Avantis Sauvignon Blanc This medium-bodied, young vine Sauvignon Blanc spends more time in barrel than the 2002 Drios Roditis, about five months. It has a gold color with green rim and nose of candied fruit and cake. Its chewy palate is intense with tropical fruit balanced by a layer of tart acidity, fresh bread and a hint of wood. This is a unique and characterful wine for which Apostolos Mountrihas has high future hopes. "I wish the vines were a little older", he says, "to provide more aroma and more complete fruit." 2002 Avantis Rosé This rosé is a blend of 90% Grenache and 10% Roditis. Strawberry red in color, its complex nose features strawberry, dried red fruit, tomato and yeast. In keeping with a tendency among Greece's serious producers, it has very little residual sugar. Its palate shows unripe plum and barely-noticeable tannin and stem flavors. Although Apostolos Mountrihas describes it as a disappointing vintage ("this doesn't have the marmalade it usually has"), this is a serious rosé that leans towards the red, the kind of wine that stands up to red wine food, including tomatoes. We look forward to seeing what it becomes in a better year. 2001 Avantis Syrah This medium to full-bodied Syrah is a deep garnet red with purple rim with an enticing nose of dark plum, candy and wood. Its grapy palate balances cocoa, jam and soft tannins. Full, concentrated and very well balanced, it has classic Syrah character though more nuance than Americans are prone to appreciate in the variety. 2000 Avantis Petite Syrah Dark with a purple rim, this medium to full-bodied blend of 75% Petite Syrah with 25% Syrah has complex nose of plums, mushrooms and fresh wood. Rich in long-lasting flavors of dark plum, chocolate and coffee, it has excellent balance--first class structure and a long, consistent finish. It would be difficult not to rate this among the one or two leading examples of Rhone varietal production in Greece. Avantis Melitis This dessert wine, a blend of Muscat and Roditis, has a deep gold color with amber rim and complex nose of honey, flowers and mountain herbs. Its sweetness is mitigated by stone fruit acidity, its long finish colored by sweet oak notes. |
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