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Oenoforos
| News: March 20, 2003 February 25, 2003 |
Shortly thereafter, Rouvalis met Yiannis Karabatsos. By education an agronomist specializing in ambelography, Karabatsos had long abandoned the then lean field of oenology in favor of a more lucrative career as a plant supplier (a decision, presumably, he did not come to regret). Finding they occupied common philosophical ground, Karabatsos had the wherewithal to underwrite a new winery which was completed in time for the 1994 harvest. The winery, the epitome of use-defined design, is built on six-levels, is 100% gravity-fed and utilizes the latest technology to facilitate the skin contact and controlled temperature fermentation that are the hallmarks of Oenoforos white wine production. Karabatsos also began an ambitious revitalization of local vineyards, convincing local growers to commit parcels to a host of cultivars he and Rouvalis hoped would define the future of Oenoforos. That future is now. From their own four hectares and the properties of their contracted growers, Oenoforos now also vinifies Chardonnay, Riesling, Cabernet, Merlot, Syrah and the exceptional indigenous cultivars Lagorthi and Volitza. Annual production is inching towards 180,000 bottles. While many other leading vintners of their generation have earned some measure of cult status, the Oenoforos image is built squarely on the wines themselves. Recently Rouvalis and Karabatsos hired oenologist Tasos Drossiadis. Drossiadis had previously been chief oenologist at Antonopoulos Vineyards and had been the protégé and confidant of the late Konstantinos Antonopoulos, a visionary and leader in the quality revolution during the 1980s. When we met with Tasos at the winery, he had been with Oenoforos for only a month. His complete grasp of the facts, as well as his natural public relations skill, suggest the transition to his new position was an easy one. Oenoforos has become a formidable team. Asprolithi, their defining label, has become one of the most recognizable boutique brands from Greece. In America, ethnic distributors who don't know any better have even taken to listing it as if it were the brand itself. For all their success, Rouvalis, Karabatsos (and now Drossiadis.) are focused on the future. They seem just now to have reached a level of satisfaction with their 100% Lagorthi. Their 100% Volitsa "is in the last stages of experimentation." Their first Riesling was released in 2000. The wines: Asprolithi 2000 In this 100% Roditis, according to Drossiadis, "we try to put the grape in the bottle." This typicist rhetoric, humble as it sounds, fails to do justice to the attention to detail that characterizes every stage of the wine's production. Getting the grape in the bottle, as it happens, is no simple matter. In this and previous vintages the grapes for Asprolithi white were harvested in the morning (the 2001 has been harvested then refrigerated for 24 hours prior to maceration). Forty to fifty percent of the grapes receive 12-18 hours of skin contact at a cool six to ten degrees celsius. The must is decanted, then undergoes classic white vinification at 15°. There is no malolactic fermentation–the malic is valued by the winemakers for its creaminess. The wine is bottled as quickly to capture as much CO2 as possible in the bottle. The result? Grapes, yes, but a cosmopolitan wine of some sophistication, offering quite a subtle dose of tropical fruit (banana, grapefruit, passion fruit) in addition to the pear that may be typical of the variety, but whose opulent presence no doubt is owed to diligent extraction using precise, modern techniques. This tropical aspect is mitigated on the palate by a subtle acid profile. This quality will be even more pronounced in the 2001, according to Drossiadis, in which higher malic acid levels will bring out an even creamier texture. Lagorthi 2000 The Lagorthi was first cultivated by Drossiadis' late mentor, Antonopoulos. As this cultivar grows in popularity among various winemakers in the Peloponessos, Oenoforos strives to make it its own. It is Drossiadis' sincere belief that this variety rivals or exceeds Sauvignon Blanc in quality. 100% skin contact assures maximum extraction of the variety's floral aspect. While steel is a descriptor that seems to be employed regularly to describe Lagorthi's nature, Oenoforos seems to have opened up the fruit basket sufficiently to reveal more organic flavors. It is certainly crisp, but creaminess is more apparent than overt acidity. Drossiadis says he aims for "great mouth feel." This wine has it. At 12.5% alcohol, the 2000 had some body. Drossiadis believes this body is achieved at the expense of aroma. The goal for the 2001 will be 11%. Riesling 2000 This, the maiden vintage of the Oenoforos Riesling, bodes well for its treatment in the future. A superb dry Riesling, crisp with a long finish, it is mildly fruity with more minerals apparent than in the previous two wines. Like the Lagorthi, 100% skin contact brings out the fruit, but the varietal difference is plain as day. The Riesling displays many more layers, including aromas of wild herbs. This is another wine in which alcohol level will be ratcheted down in the 2001, from 12% to a target of 11.5%. This was a smart choice of cultivar with which to showcase the desirable features of local terroir. Chardonnay 2000 Chardonnay has proven a mixed bag in Greece. Some have mastered it, some are at the mercy of microclimates in which the variety may never likely thrive. Oenoforos' is in a class by itself. When I mentioned that I felt as though I was drinking Chablis, Drossiadis replied, "we copy and fine tune the Burgundian process. This is our white vin de garde." After a light pressing, fermentation begins briefly under refrigeration in stainless steel. The bulk of fermentation is in barrel and the must remains on the lees for six months. This wine is conservative by American standards, but has abundant soft fruit and minerals to back it up. The use of oak is masterful by any standard. This wine really took us by surprise. Esperitis Rosé Greece produces a wide variety of rosé, much of it phenomenal. The climate begs to produce rosé. The Esperitis, however, is an atypically northern and elegant style, one produced entirely from Agiorgitiko. The grapes are sourced from vines growing at 700 meters and harvested earlier than they would be for red wine. They undergo a three day maceration, then pressing. The result is a Greek novelty: tremendous acidity, deep color, maximum extraction of skin components in a bone-dry wine. It is possible that one cannot fully understand Agiorgitiko without experiencing this side of it. Like the Oenoforos whites, the rosé has the feeling of having been just plucked from fermentation. This is a trademark, says Drossiadis, "All our wines are nervous in the mouth." Cabernet 1999 Oenoforos goes to great lengths to produce a Cabernet that transcends associations with hot climate wine. The microclimate and vineyard elevation help. So does careful monitoring of phenolic maturation. "We harvest when tannins are at their optimum." In order to fine tune extraction, the grapes undergo a 15-18 day fermentation under "temperature piloting." Fermentation begins at 14° Celsius and is gradually increased during the course of fermentation to 28°. Aroma extraction is maximized during the initial cold stage, tannin during the warm stage. Free run juice is separated from vin de presse, followed by malolactic fermentation Decisions are then made regarding a final blend. The wine undergoes coarse filtration, then moves to a combination of French and American Mission oak for 12 months. Any fining and filtering aims only to remove yeast. This Cabernet is full of young, dark fruit. It has a sophisticated structure, medium alcohol and herbal notes that give up its latitude of production without compromising the integrity of the winemaking. It is smooth to the finish, but not without fine texture and typical fresh, Oenoforos mouth-feel. The Volitsa will be rolled out soon. Vintage 2000 Merlot and Syrah were in barrel when we visited. Their debuts and eventual fine tuning will complete one phase of product development for the winery. We will report further on these following their release. |
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Volitsa