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Oinopedion Estate (Biblia Chora)
| News: March 20, 2003 February 25, 2003 December 9, 2002 August 1, 2002 |
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Ultimately Gerovassiliou became famous for the eponymous wines he produces at the estate he founded in his home village in the early 1980s. Tsaktsarlis, following a brief practicum at the Boutari company, was chosen to head winemaking at Domaine (Kostas) Lazaridi in Drama in 1992. During his tenure there, Tsaktsarlis' smart, accessible wines made the winery the first internationally recognized Greek fine wine producer. Gerovassiliou, meanwhile, was credited with establishing the highest standards in the country for fine wine production. When it became clear that the time had come for Tsaktsarlis to establish his own label, the ever-supportive Gerovassiliou was a natural–and enthusiastic–choice of collaborator. The decision where to locate their new venture was clear from the beginning. In a way, both winemakers were admired for their extraordinary skill as oenologists but were prisoners of the limitations of their respective terroirs. Gerovassiliou's estate has superior soil and grape-friendly microclimate but fairly low elevation. In part, the esteem in which Gerovassiliou is held has much to do with his unmatched skill in producing elegant structure from the low, hilly topography of Epanomi. His consulting work is known to have brought Gerovassiliou in intimate contact with some of Greece's highest vineyards. It is hard to imagine he did not come to covet for his own wines some of the acidity these elevations can produce. In seeking grapes for Domaine Lazardi's ever-growing production needs, the winery had begun relying on vineyards near Kavala. Though south of Drama, Kavala's mountains are part of an ocean-influenced microclimate in which elevation and weather combine to create a significantly longer growing season. According to Tsaktsarlis, "I couldn't help but notice the difference between a variety grown in Drama and the same variety grown near Kavala. The local grapes from Drama were conspicuously riper while those from Kavala gave far more significant structure. When the decision was made to create our own estate we studied the area further and found south-facing mountain slopes that would gives us the maximum fruit for the acidity we wanted." Planting was begun in 1999. Total vineyard area is currently around 11 hectares. Red varieties include Cabernet, Merlot, Syrah and Agiorgitiko. Currently Cabernet and Merlot are blended for the estate's sole red (Biblia Chora Red). Syrah, so far, is used only in the Biblia Chora Rosé. Among the reasons for this (in no discernable order) are that the vines are still young, noone else in Greece has done it and it makes for a superb (and, as it happens, award-winning) blush. Agiorgitiko, the star of Nemea, is still under evaluation. So far, the duo is pleased with its development but will wait another year before deciding whether it will figure in a blend or stand alone. White varieties reflect the combined comfort zone of both partners, but with a clear leaning towards Tsaktsarlis' past successes. The Estate White is a blend of two powerhouse varieties, Savignon Blanc and the indigenous Assyrtiko. It comes as no surprise that these particular winemakers would bask in the opportunity to create a wine of full-blown structure. The 2001 Chardonnay is still in its evaluation stage. The 500 young vine bottles that were produced, if released, will probably be used to whet the appetite of buyers for a slightly more developed 2002 (weather permitting). Semillon vines are still too young to bear vinifiable fruit. Lest assumptions be made concerning a final blending partner, Assistant Winemaker Annegret Stamos (a long-time Tsaktsarlis team member from the Lazaridi days) leans towards a marriage with a Greek variety. Recent Gewurztraminer and Muscat plantings round out the list. The winery is being built in stages, allowing vinification to preceed its overall completion. It will combine the best features of chateau and villa, with living space on the upper story and a courtyard above the cellars separating the front from the production area in the rear of the structure. Architecturally it was impressive even in its poured-concrete phase. Winemaking, meanwhile, is the #1 priority. The three wines (white, red and rosé) that presently comprise the Biblia Chora label are in limited supply. In 2003 Gerovassiliou and Tsaktsarlis hope to release 20,000 bottles of the white, 7,000 bottles of the rosé and 20,000 bottles of red. Demand is already high, aided by excellent standings in their first competitions: a gold medal for the white at the 2002 Citadelles du Vin and another gold for the rosé at Challenge International du Vin, both in (where else?) Bordeaux.
Biblia Chora White 2001 This blend of 60% Sauvignon Blanc and 40% Assyrtiko has a full, musky nose. The citrusy Assrtiko contributes much to the overall profile. Even if it didn't, the old-world character of its Sauvignon Blanc component means more classic than tropical, aromas. Acidity is dominant with sparse fruit of the kind normally associated with bone-dry Sancerre. Its body is substantial, giving weight to a middle palate which needs substance to balance the wine's steely structure. It has an long, elegant, but subtle, finish. Rosé 2001 This Syrah rosé has an appealing strawberry hue. The nose, however, is full of all manner of wild berries—and deceivingly ripe. On the palate the berry flavor is light, but pervasive. The wine, however, is no fruit basket. While it has medium body, its acidity is quite high and complex, going from just tart to citrusy, even puckering at the finish. Ultimately, this is a unique and austere young vine rosé—a bold palate-cleanser with sophisticated aromas. Biblia Chora Red 2000 The quiet fruit in this blend of 60% Merlot and 40% Cabernet may have much to do with youthful vines. Likely the need to insure fresh fruit was partly behind the predominance of Merlot in the mix. Nevertheless, it is a window into the terroir and likely staid future of Biblia Chora reds. Its color is dark garnett red with purple edges. Its nose is soft with hints of smoke. Eight months in oak has given the fruit a maturity that becomes the wine's solid acidity. A sophisticated Old World red that points toward a bright future for the label.
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Biblia Hora Rosé 
Biblia Hora Red 
