George Palivos

News: February 25, 2003

Palivos has vines both in the valley and on the mountainsides of Ancient Nemea Nutshell... Company Name:   Ktima Palivou     Location:   Ancient Nemea, Peloponessos     Winemaker:   George Palivos     Importers:   US: Stellar Imports     Products: Palivos White       Rosé       Agiorgitiko     Nemea     To contact this company click here       George Palivos is a familiar (and well-informed) presence at the site of Ancient Nemea George Palivos is one the Greek wine industry's most dynamic characters. A fourth generation grower and winemaker, he grew up playing between rows of vines in the family vineyards. His future, he says, was never in doubt. During a time in which Nemea, according to Palivos, "is a magnet to outside investors," he is one of a handful of producers with ties to Neméa's winemaking heritage. This heritage, and the history of region itself, are of great interest to Palivos, so much so that what we had expected to be a mere winery tour and interview became a frenetic jaunt through the valley of Ancient Nemea, culminating in a tour of the archaeological site that features the ancient stadium. The guard at the entrance treated Palivos more like an employer than regular visitor, and Palivos' grasp of every detail on the grounds and in the museum left no doubt that he is a frequent companion to the American archaeologist who supervises the excavations there. On the way, driving along along dirt roads through his vineyards at breakneck speed, praying not for our own safety, but for the undercarriage of his Mercedes, we developed a real sense of the man, his personality, values, ambitions and, above all, pace. Like all memorable interviews with Greek winemakers, this one involved a trip to the family house to meet parents and children and poke around the traditional cellar beneath the house to taste wines in progress from the barrels in storage beneath the living quarters. It also involved two separate tastings and two meals within about eight hours. In the midst of this activity we were regaled with ancient ambelographical history, barraged with complaints about the inability of the region to support oenotourism and subjected to enthusiastic and ambitious plans for his wines and winery. Palivos struck us as having decidedly American attributes. He is inventive and efficient, a real idea man, and talented self-promoter. But he is no huckster. The proof is in the pudding. One leaves the man certain that whatever is proposed can be delivered. This is partly due to the fact that he is a serious achiever as winemaker, and partly due to the fact that, in his own way, he is a good listener, a man who sends out his pronouncements like radar, ready to form a picture from the responses he gets back. This observant nature may have a lot do with the strength of his wines. George's parents epitomize the hospitality for which Greeks are justifiably famous More than any other Greek winemaker we met, Palivos has his eye on both local and worldwide trends. As a result, his wines display a sophistication in style and substance that will likely help support his contention that Nemea ought to strive for international recognition, as if only by setting ambitious goals, will lofty wines be achieved. The approach has much to recommend it. Despite a serious investment in winery equipment, his focus is on vineyard management. "Let the vineyard make the wine," says Palivos, "my role is to give a gentle nudge when it is needed." Accordingly, the bulk of his experimentation occurs in the vineyard. Palivos can wax poetic on the subjects of canopy management, grafting, training, pruning, elevation, soil and the weather (it rains on August 15th each year). Vinification is classic. Oak, when employed, is medium to heavy toast, a judicious blend of new with various older barrels. Palivos is equally up-to-date on bottling and packaging, a standout of wisdom and good taste. He speaks wistfully about his cork expenses and inquires whether we think his labels will work in America (they will). The Palivos portfolio is focused: two reds, a white and rosé: Wheat covered, this vineyard is getting a year of rest. Palivos White 2000 Made from low yield Roditis grown on the local hillsides at 300 meters, this wine achieves heady alcohol levels (14%) and tremendous concentration. The Alepou, now universally regarded as the best of the Roditis clones, is used. The wine is finished for 5 months in lightly toasted Allier barrels. The oak does its work without dominating the fruit. Although there is less acidity than in some other Roditis in this class, the incredible, clean finish and sturdy structure support a surprisingly subtle plethora of round fruit. If Roditis were made in California... Rosé 2000 At 13% this rosé 100% from Agiorgitiko has remarkable body. Color is as rose as rose gets, acidity is high. This wine is as crisp as it is full-bodied with extraction to match. Tiny tannins linger on to make for a complex, spicy finish. It is obvious that Palivos puts a lot of effort into his rosé. If Americans would wake up to the seriousness of the genre, this wine would be a showstopper. Agiorgitiko 1999 This is a well-crafted showcase for Agiorgitiko's essential character. Stainless steel fermentation insures the preservation of cherry. Tannins are elegant for so fresh a wine. Fruit hangs on the finish. Nemea 2000 We tasted this after six months in barrel. It was rich, brimming with pleasant tannin and featured abundant strawberry fruit. Palivos knows oak. An impressive oak program in which new barrels account for 40% of contact, the rest in three year rotation, utilizes the effect of oak without significantly affecting flavor or aroma. With another six months to go before its release, it was already an impressive young wine. Nemea 1998 Palivos's focus pays off in this wine, a beautifully and subtly oaked Nemea. Oak contact is nearly identical to that of the 2000, but time has given it real depth and integration. Firm tannin structure melds nicely with concentrated fruit. A universal, quality poster boy for Agiorgitiko. Palivos is a man on the move with a bright future. Ideas he put forward privately struck us as brilliant. If he pulls them off, we would not be surprised to see him leading the pack of US exporters with the wine media in the palm of his hand.

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