 |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Athanassios and George Papaïoannou
| News: March 20, 2003 February 25, 2003 |
Papaïoannou is a self-taught winemaker. His production of world-class wines in Nemea has been slow and steady, achieved over decades. Nothing was gained without experimentation and observation. An entire vineyard of Moschofílero was once uprooted immediately upon the realization that the variety was hopelessly unsuitable. In contrast, his legacy as a producer of Agiorgitiko is unsurpassed, making him one of a handful of producers in Greece capable of dividing a portfolio (his red Nemea) into old vine and new vine. These decades of observing the reaction of vine to the fecund but dry Archaia Nemea soil and micro climate have led to ever easier introductions of new cultivars. In addition to Agiorgitiko, plantings consist of Roditis, Asyrtiko, Malagousiá, Lagorthi, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet and Pinot Noir. Experimental plots contain some 35 additional varieties, mostly Greek. Annual production now exceeds 350,000 bottles, a quantity that would probably have been unmanageable were not for the participation of Athanassios' son, George. George Papaïoannou is a man who is easily contrasted with his father. A trained eonologist and first-rate mind, he is at once introverted and an evangelist, the serious priest to his father's smiling deity. He is a fount of information about his area of expertise and an outspoken advocate for rational appellation laws. He is, indeed, a preacher, and the point of every sermon is to instill one value: quality. As long as the subject is wine, and as varied as the subject of wine actually is, there is no argument he makes that does not invoke the notion of quality as the standard against which all possible evidence and all options are weighed. George feels Greece has its own contributions to make to the world of wine. "We can produce high-quality wines with unique flavors different from French and other wines, but we can also make Cabernet and Chardonnay. We've never copied the French style, however. We have always striven to create our own versions, guided by techniques that were developed during experimentation with the varieties over 20 years." Papaïoannou senior had worked for Katogi, the first Greek winery to plant Cabernet in 1970. The dual goal for Cabernet, as with all the imported varieties, has been to meet international expectations while allowing the wines to find their own way within the regional terroir. Indigenous cultivars require even greater effort. Standards must be established without the benefit of a frame of reference in international markets. Some indigenous varieties are more expensive to produce. "Agiorgitiko is more difficult and expensive to vinify than Cabernet. But we have faith that quality will eventually compensate us for these costs. Certainly quality vinifications of indigenous varieties are the only ones that will bring success for us and for Greece in foreign markets. The estimations of these varieties here and abroad is not a momentary matter. Sometimes time decides when a variety will receive a higher calling. Our role, in a way, is to qualify them for consideration. If their time comes, we will be rewarded. Perhaps to the detriment of our sales, we are currently much more concerned with achieving quality than with marketing." Achieving quality has meant a steady decrease in yields. Because Papaïoannou is in a good position to carry the costs, this has not been a problem. Father and son, however are both sympathetic with other growers who need to overproduce to survive. It is better to grow grapes than not, but George warns, "you can grow grapes for God or for the devil." Chemical-free farming and pruning, especially of the prodigious Roditis, are essential elements of the Papaïoannou philosophy. Carbonic maceration is frequently employed to insure that drinkability accompanies the intense extraction of red varietals.
Roditis 2000 This Roditis has body (alcohol is 12%) and character. Fresh and lively, it displays plenty of the soft fruit (pear and melon) that characterizes the variety. George believes that "Roditis has the potential to be the Greek Chardonnay–maybe." In this, as in all their white wines, they strive for medium acidity and no residual sugar. All Papaïoannou whites are fermented at 12° C. Skin contact is limited, though remnants are allowed to stay with the must through fermentation. Coherence and integration are the goals of this wine–not juxtapositions of distinct organoleptic elements. It is full, round and dry. Asyrtiko Playies Ai-Liá 2000 The Asyrtiko, jewel of the Aegean islands, has found its way increasingly into the vineyards of the Peloponessos. There, different soils and micro climates tend to bring out its middle fruit. Such is the case in this version, which displays honey aromas and a high degree of grapiness, though bone dry. Acidity is pronounced, as it would be, alcohol (at 13%) is in line with Aegean versions, but the hillside vineyards of Archaia (Ancient) Nemea combined with unintrusive winemaking have brought out the soft, elegant potential of the grape. Asyrtiko Playies Ai-Liá 'Vareli' 2000 (pre-release) Lower in alcohol (12%) than the unwooded version, this wine has a unique ginger/yellow color, retrained citrus and subtle floral aromas. This was one month in barrel at the time of our tasting and oak had not fully integrated.
This wine shows the real difference between oaked Aegean and Mainland Asyrtiko. The deep yellow color is distinct, the affects of oak are considerably more pronounced, manifested in considerable softness and super vanilla aromas in tandem with flowers. A rich, palate-filling mouth feel. Chardonnay 2000 Although a surprisingly tart Chardonnay, it has plenty of soft fruit on the nose and palate as well as some green apple. A hint of spritz added liveliness, but not at the expense of the feeling of overall body. A very unique Greek version, one that suggests a cooler climate than the one in which it was produced. Fumé 2000 This Chardonnay spends four months in barrel. We noticed a hint of green in its otherwise even yellow color. At 13.5% it is full-bodied, a tad prickly but with lush skin extracts as well. In contrast with the previous wine, the oak in the Fumé brings it back to earth. To employ a skating metaphor, this wine is as good an indication as any that the Papaïoannous have moved from the compulsory program to free skating. The technical prerequisites are long met. Now matters of style govern the decision making. Rosé "Ambelones" This 100% Agiorgitiko is extraordinarily subtle. The variety typically produces light rosés anyway. Even with 10 hours of skin contact, this is one of the lightest rosés we can remember. According to George, roughly 1% of the skin remains in the must during its cold fermentation, but accounts for 95% of the color. Still, dry and with some phenolic extraction, it is not a precious or ethereal wine. It may, however, leave fans of more concentrated rosé wishing for more depth. Agiorgitiko 2000 It should be no surprise that the Papaïoannous would consider this variety their stock in trade. If Agiorgitiko gains acceptance outside of Greece–receives, as George would say, its "higher calling"–this father/son team will undoubtedly have had something to do with it. This stainless steel version is clean and fruity but has earth tones as well. Tannin is an elegant feature here, quietly present throughout. Pinot Noir 2000 Producing Pinot Noir in Nemea requires some serious strategy. On the positive side, there is no risk of rainfall near the harvest. On the negative side, there is the heat and the tendency of the variety to overproduce in this environment. For the Papaïoannous, the solution is extensive pruning and early harvesting. The result is a full-bodied wine, still light in color. For all its lightness, though, this is no shrinking violet. The wine has firm structure, a nice balance of fruit and tannins and Nemea valley earth tones. Agiorgitiko (select grapes) 1998 Grape selection is probably the best way to assure the production of superior wine during a bad year. This Agiorgitiko from select grapes shows surprising density. A rich version despite a slightness of body. Old Vine Agiorgitiko The Papaïoannous have Agiorgitiko vineyards that were planted in the early 1970s. These mature vines produce some of the most elegant fruit in the region. We tasted three vintages. Each of these vintages created distinctly different products, but all had much to recommend them. The 1998 was mature, soft, concentrated and a little smoky. Body was lighter than the other two we tasted, but texture was ample compensation. The 1997 was bolder, fruitier and had more acidity, reminiscent in some ways of Burgundy. Packed fruit and strong tannins marked this powerful but elegant winemaking. The 1996 had some of the best characteristics of the previous two wines. Fruit was still pronounced, but the boldness of this version was balanced by hints of smoke. Big and chewy with a hanging finish, this wine was one of the high points our visit to Nemea. While the Papaïoannou portfolio is one of the most extensive in the region, no product lacks focus. This says a lot for the facility the team has with each variety. According to George, "wine and variety are both good for the spirit. That's why we have 12 labels. Believe me, we don't need all this work, but we like it this way. Each new variety brings a fresh perspective." Future plans, he says, may include Sauvignon Blanc, the prized native Malagousiá and a secret variety one suspects hails from the estate's experimental plots of native cultivars. |
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Old Vine Agiorgitiko
