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Chateau Pigasos (Markovitis)
A man of strong convictions generally, Dimitris is a firm believer in organic farming. The vineyards are certified, the quality of fruit a matter of satisfaction, if not pride, even during mediocre years. In fact, bad vintages affect little response from Markovitis: "I don't intervene much at all during bad vintages. I don't believe in doing more than taking minor security measures. If customers except that, great." Markovitis is an unabashed defender of Xynómavro, a true believer. During a sudden and violent rainstorm that had little effect on Markovitis' demeanor, I asked him about the trend in Naousa towards amelioration of the moody Xynómavro with Merlot, a practice in part designed to mitigate the consequences of uneven vintages. His answer: "why add Merlot–to lose what we've got?" He professes no patience for Cabernet or Merlot, at least not for his region. Like Yiannis Boutaris, whom he credits with establishing the primacy of the region, he believes that wine does not get better than the best Xynómavro. For Markovitis, in addition to organic farming the key to success with this variety is careful pruning. "For years Naousa didn't manage yields. It is still a problem. About four years ago we began pruning extensively during veraison. Not only has it improved the quality of our wines generally, it also has gone a long way towards protecting us from bad vintages." Markovitis' greatest skill, the preservation of varietal nature, is also evident in his white wines. Whereas some rustic flavors are part and parcel of even the most sophisticated Xynómavro, the typicism evident in Markovitis' Chardonnay and Riesling result in recognizable—but original—styles.
Sauvignon Blanc 2000 This is a wine of multiple personalities. While it is incredibly round, if not particularly ripe, even a bit green at first. It has a rich, oily texture, an earthy nose and a finish that lasts forever. Steely at the outset, the slightest warming brought out tremendous fruit. A naturally well-balanced and enjoyable version. Riesling 2000 This wine is crisp and clean. The bulk of fruit resides on the nose and resolves to minerals on the palate, followed by a subtle, leafy finish in which the fruit flavor is fairly lean. While I might have hoped for more fruit on the palate, this wine was appreciated for its subtlety anyway.
This clean and distinctive Chardonnay is among Greece's best. It unleashes a powerful dose of fruit on the nose, but ultimately bathes the palate with much more dignified manifestations. Like the Sauvignon Blanc, the Chardonnay opened eventually to reveal secondary aromas that were otherwordly. This is perhaps Greece's most distinct Chardonnay of quality. We had the opportunity to taste a variety of vintages of Naousa. It was especially interesting to have sampled certain vintages in both oaked and unoaked versions. Markovitis' 'museum' of reds may provide the best possible education about the wide range of effects vintage can have on Xynómavro. Some notes follow: 1996 A mediocre—not horrible—vintage resulted in a light, rather than weak product. While body is light, it is a wine with complex aromas, even acidity and sufficient fruit to carry the day. 1997 This wine, which had spent 15 months in barrel, and nearly 4 years in bottle, still had plenty of aging potential. Mature tannin profile and good concentration gave this vintage an international flavor. 1998 We tasted oaked and unoaked versions. We preferred the unoaked, which was notable for its good tannins and resulting spiciness.
The 1999 was quite distinct. From the color, which had slight orange tints, to the flavor, which was also lighter, there was a ruby port feel; a sophisticated rusticity reminiscent of Iberian wine. 2000 This vintage seemed headed for greatness. We tasted a fresh version that showed wonderful tannins and a deep purple hue that may or may not survive barrel age. This is a wine of full body and rich extraction and a treat in its transitional state. Total annual production at the winery is under 70,000 bottles per year. Long-standing customers and niche markets abroad assure demand—but no foreseeable plans to increase production. |
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Naousa
