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Tour La Reine (Serpieri) Winery
Originally the property consisted of 200 hectares (494 acres) and was converted by its new owners, the Serpieri family, into a vineyard for wine production. After World War II, new laws limited the size of properties within a certain radius of Athens center and the government coopted 150 hectares (371 acres). The original winery went bankrupt shortly thereafter, but the remaining land stayed in the family.
Freddy Serpieri has overseen the development of a revived vineyard and a goat dairy farm. The estate also has an extensive olive grove as well as the picturesque chateau built by the royal family. Many of the traditional stone structures that comprised the stables, barns and production facilities for the estate were badly damaged by an earthquake a few years ago. During our visit they were in the process being restored. Serpieri, a strikingly cosmopolitan character who earned his degree in economics in Switzerland. Once head of Greece's equestrian team, he is now the Vice President of the International Equestrian Federation (FEI) and Vice Chair of the Greek Olympic Committee. The cheerful Serpieri and his wife, Sabina, are among Greek wine's most charismatic couples. In 1990 the vineyards, which had been dormant for years, were replanted. The first vintage of Serpieri' label, Tour la Reine, was released in 1994. Production on the estate is limited to 60,000 bottles. "If I were to increase production," says Serpieri, "I would have to buy grapes. Our winemaking is driven by love and tradition--nothing else. And the tradition is estate wine." One tradition will not be revived: "The original estate can only be described as having been a wine factory. Now quality--not volume--is the goal."
Plantings on the property show a well-conceived mix of imported and indigenous Greek varieties. On the Greek side, the highly-regarded Malagouzia has joined Savatiano and Roditis. The imported varieties Chardonnay, Sauvignon blanc, Cabernet, Cabernet franc and Merlot do surprisingly well in Athens' steady heat. Careful vine management is the key. Serpieri has contracted Alexandros Megapanos as a consulting winemaker. Megapanos, with his intimate knowledge of Attikan terroir and his important role in the transformation of the local Savatiano variety to international status, is the right man for the job. While the collaboration also combines two of Athens' best senses of humor, the seriousness of Serpieri' wines is not in doubt--a testament to the care taken in the concept and execution of the winery. The Serpieri wines: 2002 Tour la Reine This stainless steel-fermented white combines Chardonnay, Roditis and Savatiano. A white fruit and melon nose shows the influence of Roditis in this dry, medium-bodied blend. A long finish displays plenty of tight acidity, playing nicely against delicate fruit. The slight, nutty aftertaste is all Savatiano. 2002 Serepieris Estate (Ktima Serpieri) This blend of Roditis, Chardonnay and Sauvignon blanc has a gold color, peach and white fruit nose. A white peach palate is rich, but not cloying, aided by dryness and moderate body. This is a refreshing wine with excellent acidity and a mouthfilling mineral component. Sauvignon blanc is a supportive player throughout, showing its true colors at the finish.
2002 Malagouzia This, the most interesting of Serpieri' wines has a deep yellow color and complex, full nose of honey, peach and tangerine. A soft, cream-textured palate of peach and apricot resolves to an aftertaste of citrus and peach pit. Complex elements seem disparate but then gather together for a strong finish. 2001 Chateau Serpieri This cepage of Cabernet, Cabernet franc and Merlot has garnet hues and a nose of dark cherry and brown sugar. Medium to light-bodied, it achieves solid structure, though, like many Greek Cab-Merlot blends, it has a pleasing nouveau fruitiness. Light bitter notes at the finish accompany a tart cherry aftertaste. Shows the potential for American oak (11 months in Boswell) in combination with Greece's generally fruitier Cabernets. |
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