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Updated 2003
George Skouras
Having recently built a second winery and planted his own vineyards in Gymno, Nemea, annual production has reached more than 700,000 bottles. Skouras is now a major player both as negociant and as a producer of his own labels. In the meantime he established himself as a leading figure in the revitalization of the Nemea region and one of the most accomplished hands with the region's chief and increasingly internationally respected variety, Agiorgitiko. A high profile participant in the evolution of the industry to its present state, Skouras has adopted a leadership role as well. He is currently Vice President of the Greek Wine Federation and a passionate and vocal spokesman for Greek winemaking in general. Skouras is a commanding presence, warm, but authoritative, a man whose philosophical view of his profession is expressed with as much confidence and detail as his technical knowledge. At the beginning of his venture, Skouras worked primarily with indigenous cultivars. As he set his sights increasingly on exports, the role of Western varieties began to increase as well. The existence of Chardonnay, Merlot, Cabernet and Viognier in his portfolio are not, however, gratuitous. It is true, he says, "cosmopolitan varieties are a passport for Greek wine." Aside from showcasing improvements in quality, they also produce what he calls "big wines"—the kind of products that agree with New World tastes. Perhaps more importantly, they provided a standard against which Greek vintners can measure their progress relative to international standards. But for him, the achievement of Greece's potential is dependent upon its wealth of native cultivars. "The skill we have demonstrated with foreign varieties has improved our reputation. The improvements in equipment and technology were just the first step in our revolution. Now we begin working on our vineyards. It is a time for real strategies and real results" Now," he says, smiling, "the big party begins." Skouras' faith in Greece's natural resources is manifested in a personal accession of 24 grape varieties that inhabit small plots in his vineyards. Some are local cultivars otherwise at risk of extinction. A micro-vinification program aimed at evaluating their wine potential is expected to yield products within the decade. In the meantime, his success with indigenous varieties reflects his serious focus and acquired experience. He is a consistent producer of superior Agiorgitiko, stylish Moschofilero and a Roditis that is among Greece's best volume whites. Skouras has emerged as one of Greece's best-known producers. He seems to have learned lessons during his incursions into foreign markets. What has been described in the past as his oak-for-oak's-sake approach has been mostly abandoned in favor of a more aesthetic approach. With the party just beginning, Skouras still has many cards to play. The wines: Cambello White 2000 This is a blend of Roditis, Roditis Alepou and the rare, local Sklava. Low temperature fermentation results in maximum floral aromas and extraction of peachy fruit. Notable for its green tints and light fruitiness, this is one of Greece's most accessible mid-priced white wines. Cambello Rosé A blend of Agiorgitiko with Roditis, the color reminded us of a Cosmopolitan (the cocktail). A short maceration is followed by a long fermentation. Some light Agiorgitiko tannin grounds ample cherry fruit. Though fruity, this is no candy cane rosé. Chardonnay 2000 Generally speaking, the Peloponessos is a tough region for Chardonnay. Skouras does well within hot climate limitations. The intense heat of the region brings out the tropical side of Chardonnay, in aroma and on the palate. Skouras' version is a positive example, although the lingering bitterness of oak casts a slight pall over its otherwise playful fruitiness.
The Moschofilero grapes for this wine come from vineyards at 750 meters on the Mantinia plateau. This is a characterful Moschofilero, neither too fruity nor too acidic. An intense floral nose leads to restrained fruit on the palate. It has earthier qualities than some, more nutty flavors, full body and a long, rich finish. Its concentration, partly the result of yield restraint, distinguishes it from many others. Viognier 2000 Viognier is a variety in its infant stage in Greece. This is a complex version revealing some signs of low latitude and warm climate. It is not a squeaky-clean Viognier, but an unctuous, complex stew replete with peachy fruit, earthy spice and a long, brassy finish. What it may lack in finesse, it makes up for in body and style. Mediterranean Red 1997 This blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Agiorgitiko is produced with the American market in wine. Intended to capitalize on the same Mediterranean trend that has caused the death of Greek cuisine in upscale Greek restaurants across America, it is Skouras' entry into the supermarket genre. It is a fundamentally good, if somewhat generic wine with a typically fruity profile, good concentration and light tannins.
This represents the best fruity approach to Agiorgitiko. An unpretentious steel-fermented version, its relative softness and round fruit are enhanced during a partial carbonic maceration. Color is typically medium with blue tints, tannins are light. It is both true to type and drinkable; a great combination. Saint George 1998 Saint George is an accessible English translation of the Greek name Agiorgitiko. After fermentation in steel, this 100% Agiorgitiko ages for 10 months in new oak then a year in bottle. Skouras has a way with oak. There is some on the nose, but on the palate plummy fruit dominates. A little raw tannin emerges at the finish. Hints at valley vineyards, a great example of the good low altitude Agiorgitiko style. Megas Oenos Red 1998 This is the wine for which Skouras is best known. A blend of old vine Agiorgitiko and Cabernet, this is an elegant, mature wine with plenty of blue Cabernet tints, cherry confit and subtle smoke. Oak, again, is put quietly to good use. The wine has a modern, universal feel; plenty of power tastefully presented. Skouras has spread his wings, steadily but surely conquering Greek America. With one foot in the premium category and another in the mid-priced sector, he is in a good position to enter the mainstream. Label aesthetics and halfhearted marketing seem to be the two main impediments to wider success. The more subtle use of oak is an important step largely taken already. Skouras has the products and resources required to help lead Greek wine into widespread acceptance. With leadership abilities well proven, it is only a matter of time. Update:
With her we tasted the Cuvee Larsinis Viognier and the full range of Skouras reds. The team approach has clearly helped maintain quality during the company's expansion. The wines: Cuvee Larsinis Viognier 2000 One third of the must for this wine is fermented in barrel, the other two thirds in steel. The color of whiote gold, it has sweet aromas charactyerized by a little paint and petrol. Medium bodied, its fruit displays peach, good acidity and a lemony end taste. It is lively on the palate, its Viognier-ness quite subtle by Franco-American standards. Cuvee Prestige 2000 This blend of 60% Agiorgitiko grown in what is referred to these days as Nemea's 'zone 1', namely the upland valley floors, and 40% Cabernet from Corinth. A four to six day maceration is followed by classic red vinification. Purple-red with rose edges, its nose is fruity with fresh herbal scents. The wine has a subtle dried cherry palate, pleasant acidity and delightful, prickly tannins. A serious value wine that asserts itself using classic expression of fruit, earth and tannin rather than fireworks.
The fruit for this svelte wine is grown on hillsides in Corinth at 350 meters and up. The wine undergoes a long maceration (10-12 days), then, following fermentation, spends 12-14 months in a mix of new and old oak. Its color shows some mahogany. The wine leans towards full-bodied, but has subtle fruit and pervasive cocoa and leather and a bitter almond end-taste. Merlot 1999 This Merlot underwent virtiually the same vinification as the 1999 Cabernet. Dark cherry in color, opaque at the edges, it has aromas of dried fruit, cedar and hay. Though fairly light in body, its flavor displays distilled fruit flavors, like fine brandy and some bitter chocolate.
From fruit grown in Nemea's middle zone, this wine is deep crimson in color with strong sweet cherry aromas accompanied by caramel and some tar. Oak emanates as the dominant secondary aroma. Fruit in this wine is lean, but acidity a leading presence. Grand ACuvee Nemea 1999 This wine, from fruit sourced from high elevation Agiorgitiko, displays a deep, inky color. A powerful nose of dried currant, tobacco and tea has some fresh wood aromas peeking out at the edges. Its fruit is deep and rich, its tannins sophisticated, its acid subtle and consistent. This sohisticated wine could have been named "I Can't Believe It's Not Rhone." Megas Oenos 1999 This, Skouras' flagship red, augments high elevation. low yield Agiorgitiko with 20% Cabernet. Long skin extraction is followed by classic vinification and 18-20 months in a mix of new and old oak. Its dark color is accompanied by pronounced aromas of sweet fresh and dried fruit. A soft, smoky palate meets a balanced structure in which acidity plays with tannin on the tongue. The tannin in this wine builds like a wave towards a crescendo that falls off magically at the finish without the wave having broken. A long, subtle finish is the feather in the cap of this beautifully made wine. |
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Megas
Oenos Red 
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