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View north from the
Spyropoulos estate
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A happy Nondas Spyropoulos with faithful companion in the winery's cellars.
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The Spyropoulos estate occupies prime
vineyard area in Artemisio, on the picturesque plain that comprises the northern
Mantinia appellation zone. The family's winemaking history on the property dates
to 1860. The original winery with its stone patatiri (crushing floor) stands
behind a modern winery built in 1989. The vineyards were revived and trellised by
Apostolos Spyropoulos, the father of thecurrent owner, DMD Nondas Spyropoulos, in
1973. The estate now features 50 hectares planted with the indigenous cultivars Moschofílero,
Mavroúdi, Agiorgítiko and Lagórthi as well as Merlot, Cabernet,
Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc.
The opening of the new winery signaled the beginning of a highly focused effort towards
the application of modern vinification standards to Greek cultivars, especially the
traditional blanc de gris variety, Moschofilero. The new winery is state of the art
and continues to grow in sophistication. According to Nondas, "faced with many
options, I decided to include every feature I felt would contribute to my goals as
a winemaker. The winery is a reflection of my personal vision". From modular
temperature-controlled fermentation tanks that support micro-vinifications to a custom-designed
electrical control center, clues to Spyropoulos' personal vision are apparent: technological
deficits will not be the Achilles' heel of Spyropoulos wines. The technological air
exists beyond the winery: on a tour of the property we had our first encounter in
Greece with an air conditioned tractor.
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Nondas reaching out to his fan base.
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In 1993 the firm initiated an organic
farming program, receiving its certificate from the Greek government in 1996. During
much of the nineties, winemaking and vineyard management were supervised by the talented
and ubiquitous Greek enologist, Yiannis Paraskevopoulos. During this period, a focus
on the development of varietal character helped establish a distinct stylistic orientation
towards white wines of maximum aroma and extraction.
The recent return of Nondas' son Apostolos from the University of California at Davis,
where he received a doctorate in oenology, has added a new orientation He brought
back from California an appreciation and understanding of New World farming methodologies.
His goal is now to apply this knowledge in the redevelopment of the estate's vineyards.
While the Spyropoulos name has been associated with white wines, Mantinía
appellation whites in particular, the results of experimentation with red varieties
have been encouraging. At approximately 600 meters, Artemisio is more suitable for
the cultivation of Cabernet than many areas of the Peloponessos. Poryforos,
a blend of Agiorgitiko, Cabernet and Merlot, is a stylish and elegant wine, evidence
not only of the suitability of the region, but also of the 'meritage' potential of
the Agiorgitiko.
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Detail of fresco in winery
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The Spyropoulos portfolio manages
to include five Mantinía OPAP wines. This preponderance of Moschfílero
is accomplished with surprisingly little stylistic overlap. This diversity is aided,
in each case, by real variety in either vineyard source or vinification method. The
Oreino, for example, is sourced from higher elevation vineyards (the only non-estate
grapes Spyropoulos uses). The skin extraction achieved in this wine, undoubtedly
in order to provide aroma and flavor that balance a high level of acidity, results
in an ethereal silvery hueñtrue gris, as it were. The Mantinía
displays an uncharacteristically high concentration of fruit in concert with an uncharacteristically
subtle expression of Moschofilero's typical rose scent. The Mantinía Reserve
won a 90 rating in the August (2001) issue of Wine and Spirits Magazine.
The Fumé, a risky endeavor (but not without a traditional precedent) shows
that Moschofilero can manage 8 months in new oak. The aromatic complexity of the
wine, however, seems at odds with the variety's subtletyóusually its best
feature. The Rosé deserves special mention. Tannins extracted during skin
contact contribute to a bold, complex wine uniquely compatible with food. Lastly,
Spyropoulos produces a notable Brut (for which there is also a traditional precedent)
described in Tom Stevenson's Millenium Champagne and Sparkling Wine Guide
as the best in Greece.
The Spyropoulos is now truly a family operation. In addition to the participation
of Apostolos, daughter Konstantina, now working towards her doctorate in microbiology
at the University of Surrey, will supervise quality control and ISO and HACCP (sanitation)
certifications. |