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Strofilia (Katogi-Strofilia)
| News: February 25, 2003 |
In the early 1960s, Katogi founder Evangelos Averof fired the first salvo in what, in subsequent decades, grew to be a revolution in winemaking in Greece. Planting the country's first-ever Cabernet, the winemaker created Greece's first boutique label. Averoff's 100% Greek-barrel-aged Cabernet was supplied from two vineyards, the highest of which, the Yenets, sits at around 900 meters. At the upper margin of its elevation range, the Katogi Cabernet displayed considerably more skin than fruit. Aided and abetted by local oak, its rustic flavors, though embraced for a time by Greek consumers as the pinnacle of fashion, were ultimately deemed too challenging. Beginning in the late 1980s, Agiorgitiko from Nemea was blended in to soften the wine's rough edges. By the mid-nineties, Greek oak had been abandoned in favor of French. Around the same time, the decision was made to plant Traminer in the estate's vineyards. Merlot, Cabernet franc and Chardonnay soon followed. Now the Katogi portfolio includes eight products including Agiorgitiko/Xinomavro and Roditis/Chardonnay blends.
By the late 1990s, with a reputation for innovation and a yearning to excel in the new Greek mainstream, additional vineyards area was procured in Anavissos. Asyrtiko joined Savatiano–both in the vineyard and in the bottle–as the sturdy, acidic, white variety was shown to display its rounder personality on Attikan soil. More recently Strofilia has invested in wineries in key locations in the Peloponessos. The move has given the company access to two of Greece's most highly regarded regions. In 1998 Strofilia joined forces with Merkouri, Antonopoulos and the Santa Maura distribution company to create Oktana, an ultramodern winery in the Stimfalia lake district within the Nemea appellation zone. Nemean Agiorgitiko now figures in the company's reds, in both premium Strofilia versions and the competitively-priced Oktana label. In Aigialia, at an altitude of 750 meters, Strofilia's north-facing Mamousia vineyards occupy Greece's most highly regarded Roditis zone. They have also proven a superior environment for growing the Chardonnay and Viognier that play an increasingly visible role within the Strofilia portfolio. A Syrah may soon make an appearance.
Twenty-two years of experience have given the owners confidence in their products. The issue of oak arose, as it often does in our interviews. At Strofilia oak is never used for its own sake. Case in point: All of the winery's own vineyards and source vineyards are either organically farmed or under conversion. One of the high points of our tasting was the Mikri Strofilia, a vibrant 100% Agiorgitiko that caused dismay with a French-based group of barrel salespeople tasting in the same room. When I expressed my pleasure at finding such a distinctively natural version of this frequently over-oaked appellation, Maltezos quipped, "it goes quickly in the bottle so as not to suffer the the torture of oak aging." Later he explained, "we don't farm organically to lose every nuance in the barrel that we added in the vineyard. It's not as though we don't use oak--it's just that we use it to age, not to flavor, our wines." Working closely with oenologist Stamatia Antopa, Strofilia's owners view their expanded resources as an opportunity to further demonstrate their skill at melding style and substance. With its own oenological team and vineyards, Katogi remains under its original distinctive label. The merger, however, provides opportunities for Katogi to further develop its product line, aided by access to blending material and opportunities for collaboration with Strofilia's team. Despite the ever-increasing portfolio and wide web of production, there seems to be no lack of focus at Katogi/Strofilia. If anything, the partnership has created a new set of circumstances that favor continued innovation, consistent quality and a secure place in the Greek market.
Katogi Averoff Estate Red 1999 This wine, a blend of of more than 90% Cabernet with Merlot, is classic wooded Cabernet. After 12 months in oak, the nose melds vanilla, fruit and spice in equal strengths. Despite ample alcohol and tannin, leather succumbs to fruit and results in an overall soft mouth-feel. It has a long, prickly finish in which acidity prevails over light, new-ish oak. Katogi Averoff White 2001 This blend of Roditis and Chardonnay shows an interesting combination of full body and green fruit. Light gold in color, it has more chamomile than fruit on the nose. Outstanding in its acidity, it makes up for a slightly indistinct personality with button-down, old world structure. Katogi Traminer 2001 Katogi's Traminer has much going for it. While Metsovian wines are routinely a tad sparse on fruit, either by altitude or by design, this wine has managed to reach an impressive level of alcoholic degree (13.5%) with fruit still in tow. Gold in color with earthy aromas, it is far riper and rounder than anticipated. Soft and fat on the palate, its character is insured by a lively, slightly spritzy finish. Mikri Strofilia 1999 This wine achieves its producer's goal of creating a varietally true, "light, fruity and drinkable" 100% Agiorgitiko. A deep red hue with purple on the rim, its nose is ripe and clean. It is more notable for its super-fresh mouth feel than for its finish, but overall it was a trade worth making. Perhaps because of time spent in the bottle, it manages to capture the beauty of the variety without coming off as nouveau. Strofilia Red 1999 This blend of 70% Nemean Agiorgitiko and 30% Attikan Cabernet gets 6 months in new and used oak. Oenologist Stamatia Antopa and Yiannis Maltezos describe this as a very good year for this label. Concentrated in color, it has a dark berry nose and a full, packed, palate tempered by acidity and pleasant, dancing tannins. Its slightly jammy fruit reminded us of California, its subtle oak of France. A wine that the American market would understand and appreciate. Strofilia Rosé 2001 Of deep color and with medium fruity aromas, this 100% Agiorgitiko is superb food wine. Tomato and persimmons best describe its flavor Relatively full body and solid acidity (6 gr./lt.) make it mouthfilling. As a match for cheese, this wine is second to none. Strofilia Rogostamo 2001 This 100% Chardonnay has floral aromas, good concentration--ripe without being too fruity, balanced by medium acidity. Strofilia Viognier 2000 Though still under experimentation, this Viognier is one of Strofilia's most distinctive and successful wines. Its color is light, its nose intense with honey aromas. Its fruit is elegantly but firmly presented, aided by the wine's full body. Its hefty alcohol (14.5%) is well-integrated and barely noticeable. A supporting backbone of acidity survives to a long, impressive finish. Aging in stainless steel has much to do with the integrity and flavor of this wine.
Strofilia Asyrtiko 2000 This full-bodied 100% Asyrtiko has pale color and intense herbal and floral aromas. On the palate its fruit is also intense, its organic flavors framed by quiet, but strong, acidity and a dash of sea salt. Powerful throughout, it culminates in a bold finish. It proves that Asyrtiko, in the right hands, can do wonders on Attikan soil. Strofilia Giinos 2000 Beginning with its color this 100% Roditis is the most complex of Strofilia's whites. Its yellows are accompanied by green tints on the rim. Aromas range from grapey to honeyed to earthy. Its middle-palate is round and full. Its finish good, with a slight peach stone aftertaste. A strong wine from organic grapes whose only fault may be some barely noticeable alcohol separation. It is nevertheless a very interesting drink and a great example of typicist Roditis winemaking. Strofilia White 2001 A blend of 60% Roditis with 40% Savatiano, this wine proves that the increasingly popular method of cold skin contact prior to fermentation is not the only way to extract aromas. Maltezos describes the substantial pear aromas of this wine as "completely natural". Indeed they are perfectly consistent with the wine's pleasing, soft fruit. The light body and clean flavors are augmented by a creamy mouth feel and a little CO2. This is a very impressive high-production Mediterranean white. |
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Strofilia White 
