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Techni Oinou
| News: March 20, 2003 February 25, 2003 |
Kalaitzidis and Papadapoulos love making wine, but, if I'm not mistaken, they are little embarrassed by the speed of their success. Their entry into the market was bold, but well-managed: their wines arrived at a premium prices, topping those of their better known regional neighbors. Kalaitzidis is an architect by profession, Papadopoulos an engineer. These were handy qualifications when the decision was made to build the winery. While one of the larger wineries nearby literally busses in tourists from the coast, Techni Oinou opted for a simpler--but still welcoming--villa design. A reception area, topped by a watchtower-themed office is flanked by a covered promenade in which rows of benches and tables provide a comfortable environment for visitors to sit and sample the wines. The winery itself resides across a well-manicured courtyard and is connected to the other buildings through the cellars, which run underneath the small complex. The architecture seems particularly appropriate to the venture, being both impressive and modest at the same time. The wine making philosophy is straightforward. Kalaitzidis and Papadopoulos have goals that remind us of other Greeks that have met success vinifying mostly "cosmopolitan" varieties: to make wines that appeal to their personal taste. This means taking advantage of the distinctly continental character of soil and climate of the region. While company literature points out the rich viticultural history of the area, including the findings of carbonized grape seeds from the Neolithic area and birth of the Dionisian cult nearby, the wines of Techni Oinou are not aimed at reviving any long-lost local tradition. Rather, they are about the potential of modern wine making in a region that has become known in the past decade as the part of Greece in which the French influence has been most conspicuously felt. Although Agiorgitiko and Asyrtiko have undergone experimentation and evaluation, the pair has not yet achieved results that meet their standards. "Still," says Kalaitzidis, "we have reason to be hopeful." Until indigenous varieties become integrated in the portfolio, however, any ethnic orientation remains postponed. By hiring consulting oenologist, Angelos Iatridis, Techni Oinou has a created a small, focused team. Their office manager, Panayiotis Karaooglou, who is young, smart and efficient (and speaks great English) can be credited with convincing us to make the detour from our schedule to visit the winery. Although Techni Oinou is inhabited by understated characters, the operation exudes a contagious current of enthusiasm. The wines:
This wine is a blend of 90% Sauvignon Blanc with 10% Semillon. It is vinified in steel with secondary lees, then spends one and a half months in new oak. Bone dry with good acidity, is is surprisingly light, perhaps a bit thin, on the palate The fruit is understated and accompanied by a vanilla nose with no corresponding bitter oak end notes. The limited oak contact is wise. It is a wine whose fruit and secondary aromas would be obscured by too low a serving temperature. Idysma Drios This 100% Chardonnay is barrel fermented, spending 5-6 months in oak altogether. Yields are low and result in better concentration than in the white Techni Alipias. The nose is very subtle, but patience is rewarded by a Chablis mouth feel with plenty of acidity and body. It is easy to see why this wine would have impact on the domestic Greek market. Chardonnay has little representation in Greece on this level. Techni Alipias Rosé An interesting version based on Cabernet exclusively, it is off-dry, peachy and tart. Although subtle, it hints at the complexity of Iberian rosé more than of French. That may change as plans are underway to add Grenache to subsequent vinifications. We look forward to comparing the 2001 upon its release.
This 80/20 blend of Cabernet and Merlot evinces the vast difference between northern and southern Greek Cabernet. After a year in first and second use French oak and a year in bottle, this wine displays plenty of concentration without the fishy aromas to which we had become accustomed in the Peloponessos. It is a focused effort, as close an approximation to Bordeaux as we have encountered in a region with strong Bordeaux influences. If there are still kinks to be worked at Techni Oinou, they are not major. As vines mature and confidence grows, the focus on a small portfolio will continue to be this outfit's strength. Their wine making has proven intelligent and tasteful. More experience in vineyard management will only increase the effect of this wine making skill on future products. Although Kalaitzidis and Papadopoulos have lofty goals for their wines, their charmingly self-conscious demeanor and passion for results suggest that early success will not railroad them into complacency. We doubt they will be resting on their laurels any time soon. In the meantime, this is clearly a winery to follow during the coming decade |
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