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Yiannis Tselepos
| News: February 25, 2003 |
The choice of additional varieties was more deliberate. There was no question of planting Moschofilero, the sole variety permitted under the Mantinia OPAP appellation. Cabernet, Merlot and Chardonnay were planted partly because this was the direction serious winemakers took during this era and partly because Tselepos was certain the varieties would thrive in this environment. Thrive they have, though in the case of the two red grapes, Tselepos discourages any stylistic comparisons to Bordeaux: "My stylistic philosophy is Burgundian. Our mountain environment creates red wines of even temper. This means I can afford to let the fruit stand out." The wines: Mantinía 2000 There are two distinct styles of Mantinía: the grayish, ethereal, aromatic kind and the golden, more terrestrial kind. The problem with the latter is that it often lacks body and middle palate substance. Tselepos is considered the master of the deep side of Moschofilero. At 12%, his has more body than many, and a pale golden yellow color, warm by regional standards. The nose exhibits more honey and less rose than most. Elegant fruit on the palate resolves to a long finish characterized by surprisingly restrained acidity. We heard countless testimony from fellow winemakers that Moschofilero "belongs" to Yiannis Tselepos.
We tasted two versions. The 1999 (which was not the best year) lacked punch. Aromas were notable, citrus was a pleasant feature but dominated a little by oak. At 12.5% it had some body, but fruit was lost in the shuffle. Though certainly a respectable wine by any standard, it was eclipsed by the 2000, a stunning Chardonnay a full percent higher in alcohol than its predecessor. Both wines underwent a long fermentation in oak, but the best attributes of the 2000 were elevated rather than overcome during winemaking. Citrus was now balanced by honey, backbone was strong and a hint of yeast provided savor at the finish. Greek Chardonnay does not get better than this. Gewurztraminer 2000 We have tasted many vintages of Tselepos Gewurztraminer over the years, usually in the US. Poor handling and distribution are always a factor when tasting Greek whites from the dusty ethnic racks in American wine shops. We looked forward to tasting a fresh version of this wine for the first time. Fans of both American and Alsatian Gewurztraminer–especially late harvest–will find this wine a genre to itself. It has superb aromas, but quite distinct from a honeyed Alsatian nose or American gingerbread spice. Perhaps honeysuckle (which in my opinion does not smell like honey) captures the charismatic but atypical floral nature of its nose. The wine is bone dry without petrol or glycol, a bit more appley than traditional early harvest Gewurztraminer An elegant wine in its own right, it is nevertheless difficult to categorize. Nemea 1999 From a mediocre vintage, a serious wine. This is one of the most sophisticated of the Nemea OPAP wines we have tasted. An oak philosophy limiting new barrels to 20% guarantees the safe delivery of fruit and the mild, natural tannins characteristic of the local terroir. This is a lush and well-crafted red, displaying the spicy, Burgundian side of Agiorgitiko to its best advantage. Cabernet/Merlot 1999 Tselepos credits the mountain environment for the even temper of this 80% Cabernet, 20% Merlot blend. Clearly the effects of southern location and good Greek sun still have much effect even at the high altitude of his vineyards. 12 to 18 months in new oak does little to interfere with the remarkable round fruit his vines produce. Soft tannins and smooth texture provide a sophisticated showcase for powerful and complex berry and vegetal flavors. Both the friendliest and most sophisticated of Greek Cabernet, a wine whose relative youth is secondary to its mature handling.
This wine is another serious achievement. Big, chewy, bold and fruity, 16 months in barrel left few traces of overt oak flavor. Plenty of dark berry, hint of spice and very organic flavors. A most likable version of a normally uncharismatic wine. Methode Champenoise We had the pleasure of tasting this sparkler made from Moschofilero near the end of a long day. It was the perfect antidote to exhaustion. The sample we tried had been bottled for only a month and a half. The Moschofilero was a quiet component and offset by subtle yeast flavors. It was a firm wine, well-structured and strangely conservative. Half an hour later, we found it as lively as ever, but it had opened up to reveal a garden of secondary aromas and warmer fruit. Acidity was pleasantly low, allowing expression of the full breadth of fruit. This is a wonderful Champagne for people who prefer still wine to Champagne. Tselepos is ready for the mainstream. Unfortunately, spotty distribution leaves his wines out of reach of serious buyers in America. In time, if this problem is resolved, his products will come to be regarded as among the cream of the crop of Greek wines in America. |
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Merlot "Kokkinomylos"
