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Domaine Vassiliou
| News: February 25, 2003 |
George completed his oenology studies at Dijon in 1981. His first inclination was to seek work as an oenologist in Napa Valley, but quickly realized California was not his dream. Returning to Greece, he joined his father, Panayiotis, and began, in his words, "translating French know-how to Greek terroir." The family owns fifteen hectares of vineyards in Mesogeia (Attika) planted with Savatiano, Roditis and Asyrtiko. Ten additional hectares in Nemea (Peloponessos) are planted with Agiorgitiko. Cabernet is sourced from vineyards in Viotia. George is convinced that the future of Greek winemaking rests on Greece's indigenous cultivars. "We have to use the climate in concert with these varieties", he says, "these grapes go back thousands of years. At this point achieving quality with them is our main concern. A combination of experience and technology is what guides us towards the achievement of the ideal interaction between climate and grape. But our experience has taught us that technology is only so useful. If yields are high, there is nothing technology can do to improve quality." Indeed the role of Vassiliou's technology is to preserve the hard-earned integrity of his fruit. His yields, especially for the productive Savatiano are, by Attikan standards, very low. All grapes are transported to the winery in refrigerated trucks. Grapes are destemmed then pressed using a gentle, state-of-the-art Velo press. Gravity flow brings must to the winery's fermenters. All fermenters are equipped with cooling jackets. White wines are fermented at 18°c. The winery's cellars utilize strict temperature and humidity control. Currently Vassiliou produces about 300,000 bottles annually, mostly white wine. Plans are underway to build an estate winery in the midst of their vineyards in Nemea."Our goal in Nemea", says Vassiliou, "is to produce 5,000 to 10,000 very good bottles each year." Aiding in this goal is good vineyard elevation (600 meters), good vine age (20-25 years) and a three-year barrel rotation policy. The winery in Koropi is one of the region's most visitor-ready. It features a tasting room and shop where visitors can sample and purchase wines and accessories. A modern hall on the second floor is used for audiovisual presentations, receptions, conferences and cultural events. Just off the room is a fully equipped professional kitchen. Gogó can be found working busily in the winery's tasting room and shop. We toured the facility with enthusiastic Marketing Director Nick Hatzitheodorou. He presides over distribution not only in Greece but in the U.S., Germany, Belgium, Austria, France, the Netherlands, England and Sweden. The wines: Savatiano 2001 This lively 100% Savatiano comes from a particularly dry year. Light gold in color with silver edge, it has an earthy, floral nose. It has round fruit with apple flavors, light to medium body, light, lingering finish with some bitter nut end taste. It displays the kind of refreshing, nervous acidity that distinguishes the variety in low yield versions. Ambelones 2001 This, the first release of this blend of 85% Savatiano and 15% Roditis, shows how surprisingly crisp Attikan wine can be. Despite the low elevation and hot clime, this wine manages austere fruit and creamy texture. It is complex, mouth filling and as lively as the Vassiliou Savatiano. Mantinia 2001 This 100% Moschofilero shows typical color, steely and pale. Heady nose with citrus and secondary aromas of honey. Angular and refreshing, its acidity stands out, especially at its tart apple finish. Austere wine with refined structure and personality. Fumé 2001 The word Fumé on a Greek wine label often makes me cringe. It is usually fair warning of an invasion by oak. In this case, however, it was not to be. While I don't believe the wine to have been barrel-fermented, it did spend 6 months in French oak. The first good sign was that the oak imparted no color. The primary aroma of white chocolate shows little wood, the secondary aromas more. Mature peach and dried fruit flavors precede a soft, leesy finish. This is elegant, well integrated oak, especially by Greek standards. Retsina 2001 A amalgam of interesting flavors. Displays some fresh fruit, resin, of course, and compact sherry flavors. Simultaneously lively and bitter. Rosé 2001 This intriguing bone dry rosé is made from the first pressing of Cabernet. Its color is persimmons with orange and red highlights. Acidity is bountiful, even in its fruit. Tomato is predominant on the palate and the finish. Its steely texture lets go a little soon at the finish, but it is a striking, original wine nonetheless. Vassiliou Red 2000 This is light to medium-bodied blend of 60% Agiorgitiko and 40% Cabernet. It should win the award in Greece for best Cabernet in a supporting role. Its nose is rich and fruity. Substantial dark fruit displays maturity, light tannins pervade an elegant finish. A well-balanced combination of fruit, acidity and tannin. Nemea 2000 Full-bodied by Greek standards, this is a wine with conspicuous legs. Its light color shows orange tints, its nose is tight. A sour cherry palate reveals substantial acidity. Its texture is notably soft, its elegance compromised only by a slight drop in structure at the finish. A wine that will likely continue to soften with age. |
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