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Yiannis Vatistas
Vatistas began acquiring vineyards in 1986 in Ai-Nikola, near the bottom of the easternmost of the Peloponessos' three south-facing peninsulas. Soon thereafter, vineyards were planted a few kilometers north on the slopes of Pantanassas and other locations on either side of the long crest of Mount Krithina. In 1990 a small winery was built. Today the winery produces 13 products from vines cultivated on 16 1/2 hectares. The historical significance of Monemvasia, just a few kilometers northeast of his vineyards, has never been lost on Vatistas. An engraving of the fortified isthmus adorns all of his products. Although his plantings include Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet and Merlot, he is one of the few producers in the Peloponessos to have devoted energy to the exploration of some of the cultivars presumed to have comprised the local version of Malvasia some 700 years ago. Plantings include the white varieties Asproudi (Mikinon, presumably), Thrapsa, Monemvasia, Roditis, Asyrtiko, Aidani and Athiri: all either suspected Malvasia ingredients themselves or cultivars sharing significant genetic similarity with one or another of the other cultivars within the group supposed to have been ingredients. The word Malvasia came to designate many different wines from different varieties in different places at different times. Therefore it has clearly not been Vatista's aim necessarily to reconstruct anything resembling the original Malvasia—except perhaps by chance. On the other hand, the mix of varieties in Vatista's vineyards constitute a reunion of sorts. For instance, Asyrtiko, Aidani and Athiri comprise the varieties for the Santorini appellation: they may have origins or relations on the Peloponessos, but were not present locally in modern times. Likewise, the Monemvasia variety, though closely related to the Asprouda, is found, in modern times, cultivated only on the island of Paros. This family reunion, however, has not been orchestrated for academic purposes. The role of these varieties as putative Malvasia ingredients has to do with the one characteristic they almost all have in common: strong aroma and the ability to produce wine of sturdy alcoholic degree. Vatistas has affection for other local grapes. The white Petroulianos, found on the island of Kythira as well as in Lakonia, produces strong wines of medium to low acidity. Vatistas is the only winemaker in Greece to produce a varietal version. He also grows Kydonitsa, exclusive to Lakonia and so named because its aroma resembles that of kydoni (quince). Local red varieties include the Mavroudi and rare Smyrneiko as well as the better-known Agiorgitiko Mandilaria, a leading red variety on Crete, Rhodes, Santorini and other islands, is another grape that perhaps hitched a ride on the Malvasia wagon. All things considered, Vatistas has chosen an ambitious range of grapes for his vineyards. Rather than be overwhelmed by this variety of varieties, Vatistas' wines show impressive focus. This may be due to a long-standing relationship with consulting oenologist Mary Flerianou. Vatistas and Mrs. Flerianou have risen to the challenge of identifying the potential of these strains and determining their suitability in varietal wines or blends–a task, one suspects, requiring at least one encyclopedic mind. Aiding in this process is is the proven compatibility of many of these varieties (including Cabernet) with the region and ocean air that reaches virtually every spot on the narrow peninsula where Vatistas' vineyards are located. Vatistas is a shy, humble man whose soft demeanor disguises his notable achievements not only as a winemaker, but as the owner of a fishing company and an exceptional psarotaverna (fish restaurant) in Vari, Attika. Our meeting and tasting was organized and attended by Yiannis Flerianos. Mary Flerianou fielded technical questions about the wines. Vatistas Wines:
If I understood correctly, this wine is made up of Asyrtiko, Athiri, Asprouda, Roditis and Petroulianos. It has pale gold color and assertive fruit and earth aromas. Dry and refreshing, it is nevertheless fruity on the palate with light acidity and surprising minerality. Petroulianos 2000 This 100% Petroulianos spends 6 months in oak. A gold color with some silver on the edge, it has strong aromas reminiscent of Alsatian Pinot Gris. Ripe, but with crisp acidity, the Alsatian similarity continues on the palate. Although its finish dissipates readily, it remains one of the most unique and yet familiar tasting Peloponesian wines we've tried. Asyrtiko 2000 Light Brass in color, it has a strong nose replete with petrol. Dry, restrained fruit, waxy texture gives way to a creamy mouth feel and strong finish. Reveals a new face of this dynamic variety. Fumé 2000 This 100% Sauvignon Blanc is deep yellow in color with copper hues. Aged for 6 months in oak, it has a light nose of toffee and wood. Full-bodied, its fruit is distinctly tropical, ripe mango balanced by tart acidity. Oak flavor is present, but not dominating. This is a complex wine, exciting in its juxtaposition of strong flavors. Rodi 2001 This unique 100% Cabernet developed from a serendipitous attempt at rosé, one in which the color developed so rapidly, it was red wine before the winemakers knew what hit them. Inspired to watch and wait, they followed the fermentation until it yielded a one-of-a-kind Cabernet nouveau. The wine appears a dark rosé, but its palate shows shows more extensive skin extraction and less ripe fruit. It is a fascinating wine that is palate-friendly at the same time its high concentration of anthocyanins give it a serious character. Monemvasios Red 2000 This 50/50 blend of Thrapsathiri and Agiorgitiko spends 8 months in oak. It has a dark cherry color and candy-molasses nose. It is medium-bodied with abundant ripe fruit on the palate, a long finish and pleasing dried cherry aftertaste. Vatistas Red 1999 This 50/50 blend of Cabernet and Agiorgitiko is a deep crimson color and has a rich, cherry nose. Mature, dried red fruit is livened by prickly tannin. It has a clean, long finish with lively, acidic end taste. |
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Athiri
Dry
Rosé
Vatistas
Red 