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Boutari Group
| News: March 20, 2003 February 25, 2003 December 16, 2002 |
In 1935, Ioannis' son Stelios took over the operation, expanding an already growing product line into foreign markets. Under his management the family business achieved the strong domestic position it enjoys to this day. In the late 1960s Stelios' sons Yiannis and Konstantinos took over the operation. With Yiannis overseeing oenological matters and Konstantinos heading marketing, the Boutaris turned the business into a winemaking powerhouse. During a period when Phyloxera ravaged Naousa, the pair purchased their own vineyards, beginning a capital expansion that ultimately culminated in the creation of a network of wineries that inhabit nearly every important wine producing region in Greece. In addition to wineries in Naousa, Goumenissa, Santorini and Arhanes, Crete, the company has acquired the Cambas label and has properties or joint ventures in Attika and Mantinia. Today, something of a beverage conglomerate as well as a wine company, the Boutari Group produces about 15 million bottles annually and exports to 38 countries. The nineties saw a new management direction, occasioned in part by the departure of Yiannis to pursue his dream of estate-level production. A new generation, in the form of Konstantinos' daughter, Marina, now Director of Corporate Communication, insures the continuation of a family enterprise even as the public Boutari Group continues a historical involvement in beverage importation and its diversification into beer production. During the last decade the Boutaris' have pursued viticultural and enological research in conjunction with the NAGREF Wine Institute. According to the company, research and development are a heightened focus whose aim is to improve their own products as well as Greek wiune generally. Naousa has always been the Boutaris' spiritual and commercial center. The Boutaris' were not only instrumental in the revival of this region of rich viticultural heritage, they are also largely responsible for the establishment of its appellation status. Even in this highly competitive area, there are winemakers who speak of their debt to Yiannis Boutaris in particular. Despite serious competition from both small and large producers, for many Boutaris is Naousa still.
The wines we tasted were: Boutari white (NV) About varietal composition company literature says only that the wine is made from "white grape varieties cultivated in various vineyards spread all over Greece." This is the lightest of the light. Alcohol and acidity are both low. Even, smooth and dry, this is friendly wine; the kind that goes so well with taverna food at the end (or middle) of a long, Greek summer's day. Kretikos white 2000 Made from 100% Vilana, this is a medium-bodied wine with floral aromas, a little residual sugar, earthy flavors and slightly spicy finish. Although a bit of a wallflower, a pleasant, unchalleging drink with good expression of the variety's tropical side. Lac des Roches 1999 This 100% Savatiano shows good concentration. Earthy, vinous and a little spicy, aromas are maximized during cold fermentation. Delicate, but not without structure, has some hot climate woodiness in addition to subtle acidity.
This 100% Asyrtiko has solid structure, quiet fruit and consistent, lemony acidity that hangs on the finish. Aromas are complex, tropical fruit is lean and crisp. Retsina (NV) Boutari adds a small quantity of resin to this 100% Savatiano prior to fermentation. This is subtle stuff for retsina, a quiet compromise between the traditional Athenian quaff and the premium varietal versions that have begun appearing from boutique producers in recent years. Roditis Rosé (NV) This, a distinctly Greek style of rosé, displays considerably more skin extract than fruit. We are actually fond of this tradition, though it may be a hard sell to Americans, who are on the whole already rosé-squeamish. One is tempted to describe its color–if not its flavor–as tawny. This is challenging stuff, but has its right moment. Boutari Red (NV) Another wine from mystery grapes, this shows light extraction with purple-blue rim. Light in body, though smooth, a nice drink, though a little thin at the finish. Kretikos Red 1998 Fermented and aged in stainless steel, this complex, bluish blend of Kotsifali (70%) and Mandilaria (30%) is distinctive for its rosé-like flavor profile. Complex aromas and perceptible acidity make this wine unique even within its Cretan genre.
We found this similar to the 1998, but displaying considerably more fruit and slightly less acidity. Interesting young-vine Kotsifali. Nemea 1999 This 100% (of course) Agiorgitiko spends a year in Limousin oak. While not over-oaked, vanilla dominates some pretty light fruit. It is soft, though not as round as it might be. High elevation fruit probably contributes to this thinness. Paros 1999 Paros Mantilaria has a profile all its own. Typically dark, grapy and leathery, this is a restrained version in which the fruit is plenty, tannins are relatively restrained and the variety's wild side is expressed mainly in a bitter herb finish. Goumenissa 1999 Goumenissa is one of Makedonia's most palate-friendly appellations. In this wine, the amelioration of Xynomavro with 30% Negoska fills out the middle palate, leaving plenty of Xynomavro acidity and tannin for punch and aging. Strawberry and dark berry fruit mingle and resolve to a tight finish.
It is often said that Boutari still sets the standard for Naousa wines. This version shows hows Xynomavro's better features are not necessarily tied to color and in body– both of which, in this wine, are middling to light. Instead, tomato and persimmons on the nose and a lively, raw mouth feel establish clear varietal identity. Grand Reserve Naousa 1996 With evidence mounting that oak and Xynomavro don't mix and our own suspicion that the Naousa appellation is therefore ill-conceived, it is nice to see Boutari still knows how to manage this difficult relationship. Slight oranging on the edges attests to 2 years in Limousin oak. Spicy aromas, woodsy mouth feel and plenty of tannin punch make this a typically well-made Naousa. Still, we can't help wondering how the vintage would have fared in less reactive wood. Boutari is Greece's most visible brand in America. New premium labels may signal an eventual move into the mainstream. In the meantime the Boutari Group continues to augment its strong position in Greece and other markets, solidifying a position established more than a century ago. |
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Meliritos (white demi
sec)
Meliritos (red demi
sec)
Visanto (Santorini)
Rosé Demi Sec
